I’ve been to Málaga a few times, as it’s a good base for travelling around southern Spain. And once I spent 3 whole months here. I worked practically every day from local cafes and sampled great Andalusian cuisine in restaurants in the evenings or over lunch.
Traditional Spanish restaurants in Málaga
I’ll start with traditional establishments where you can sample local specialities, whether Spanish cuisine as such or regional Andalusian cuisine. If you’re not familiar with Spanish food and want to know what you can expect, check out both my articles: andalusian food and Spanish food.
Tip: You can also delve into traditional Andalusian tapas on a tapas tour with a local guide.
Casa Lola – the number one tapas bar
Casa Lola seems to dominate all the charts and especially after 9 pm you can get a table here. I had already looked this place up on my first visit to Málaga, and it was also Casa Lola that made me make a sentimental stop in Málaga during my roadtrip through Spain to have dinner here. When I lived here for 3 months, I took just about everyone who came to visit me in Málaga.
The place looks like a traditional Spanish tapas bar, which must have always been there, both in the interior and the food. There’s a wide range of classic tapas and pinxtos. But in reality, much to my surprise, the place only opened in 2010.
Of the dishes, I wouldn’t miss the classics patatas bravas (potatoes with sauce, the traditional tapas) and croquetas (they have different kinds, I prefer croquetas de jamón – ham), pinchito de gambas a la plancha (pan-seared shrimp skewered on a skewer) and Pepito Lola (a “sandwich” with a slice of grilled pork, Iberian ham and roasted peppers de Padrón).
It’s really busy at rush hour, the staff is flying around the set, sometimes they don’t have time to deliver and sometimes they can’t even be nice. In short, classic Spain as it should be. They have a system for seating people though, so don’t be afraid to get in line.
If you want to avoid the queue, don’t go at rush hour, go between lunch and dinner, it can still be fine at 6 or 7pm. The original Casa Lola is on Calle Granada, but over time several other “branches” have sprung up: the Casa Lola Uncibay, Pez Lola, Casa Lola Strachan, Astoria or Casa Blanca in Marbella or Puerto Banús. I haven’t tried them all, but I guess you can’t go wrong with them either.
Los Gatos – I call it “The Cats”
I also discovered this place on my previous visit to Malaga when Casa Lola was too full and I was hungry. I didn’t even look at the reviews and was tempted by the friendly waiter who shoved a vino dulce into my hand before I could say “well, gracias”. Subsequently, about 4 more tapas than I ordered landed on my table and surprisingly none of them were on the bill. I took an instant liking to this place too, I guess you can’t blame me.
In Málaga, pinxtos (sandwiches) are not so common, but it is even less common to see them displayed on the bar and you can choose simply by looking. In Los Gatos, this is the case. In addition to the traditional tapas, they make a big paella (which they sell “by the portion”) every day around 2pm, and in the evening they make big bowls of either grilled various types of fish or meat. I didn’t have any, but it looked great.
Tips on where to stay in Málaga
- CRUISE APARTMENT – Apartment about a 15-minute walk from the cathedral, so you’re close to the centre but a touch away from the busiest streets.
- Residencia Universitaria Málaga Centro – a cheaper option, a simple room, but there is a gym and lounge in the building, as well as private parking, ideal if you want to go on excursions from Málaga.
- Casapalma Centro Histórico – better, spacious apartment in the historic centre of Málaga.
Mercado Central de Atarazanas – Market in Málaga
Local fresh food market. Fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, olives, hams.
Towards the street (Calle Atarazanas) there are “stalls” where they also cook. The seating is outside the Mercado, inside there are still raw fish, calamari, meat, vegetables and also a huge ready-made paella ready to eat. It was for a plate of paella or fried calamari that I always liked to come here.
Beware, it closes around 2pm and is closed on Sundays.
Casa Aranda – churros yummy!
A famous churrería in Málaga, around the corner from the Mercado de Atarazanas. It’s been here since 1932 and should perhaps be renamed Calle Aranda. For they no longer reside in one house, but have taken over practically the whole street. I’ve even come across two smaller “branches” a little further away. What to have here is obvious. Churros with chocolate. It’s very popular here, so they usually have extremely fast service for Spain. I love chocolate, but I think it’s plenty enough to order one cup for two (if that’s not enough, I’ll reorder).
They open at 8am, so yes, it’s also for churros for breakfast. If there’s no room and you don’t want to wait (seats open up pretty quickly though), the bar will put the churros in a bag and the chocolate in a cup and you can eat them anywhere (don’t forget the napkins!!).
La Recova – traditional Andalusian breakfast
A place for a completely different breakfast. You definitely won’t get the classic brunch or avocado hipsterina here, but you won’t get the traditional Spanish bread with tomato and olive. They’ve gone for simplicity here, and there’s only one thing you need to eat for breakfast. Toast with 6 kinds of spread (salty like pate or chayote and sweet marmalade). All purely homemade. Breakfast (including coffee) costs 3,20 EUR, the spread is so much that I had to add a pastry to have something to spread it on.
It’s very popular here, so it’s better to expect a queue, but it’s quick and definitely worth a try. It’s good! Later in the day they have traditional tapas and a menu del día.
D’Platos – a more modern version of tapas
This place was discovered by my friends; I, a conservative casalolist, would probably never have found it, even though it’s just around the corner. This is more of a modern type of tapas restaurant, you won’t find much traditional tapas here, which is a nice change. Small tapas are a nice €1.50 I think, and they have bigger dishes too.
I was intrigued by the skewers with mozzarella coated in shredded carrots and grilled, with curry sauce.
El Mesón de Cervantes – a place for a better dinner
They have classic dishes, but also half portions of dishes and tapas. The food is delicious, it’s already a bit higher gastronomy than the popular tapas restaurants. Steaks, octopus or traditional Andalusian flamenquín.
El Tintero – a trip to El Palo
This restaurant is not right in Málaga, it’s actually an hour and a half walk along the beach (I recommend it). You can take the M-160 bus back.
The beach at El Palo is dotted with many fish restaurants and at every turn you’ll find espetos – fish (sardines) skewered on a stick and cooked on coals in boats. This is something you should definitely try in the Malaga area. Right on the beach in Malaga (Malagueta) you’ll find them too, but only a few. Outside the city, like just outside El Palo or all the way to Fuengirola on the other side, there’s plenty.
El Tintero is on the beach, it’s an outdoor restaurant, covered (shaded) by some bamboo. There must be at least 200 seats. They don’t bring a menu, they bring straight food. They go around and around with plates full of different goodies. You just show them what you like and they put it on your table. Waiters running around calling out what they have. People call out that they want it. And the place is packed. So it’s loud and busy. But it’s got a really cool atmosphere, I was literally thrilled to be there, even though I can’t remember what I had to eat.
I don’t eat fish much, so judging the gastronomic quality of a fish restaurant, especially when half of the stuff is traditionally fried, is a bit out of my area. But El Tintero… We first went by on a trip to Victoria de la Rincon. It caught my eye at first glance. A giant restaurant full of people. They say it’s always full.
Where to go for takeaway food
I couldn’t hang out at restaurants all the time (and with work, I tended to hang out at cafes), so I often just popped in for some takeout, whether for snacks, dinner, or to take to the beach. Plus, I’ve grown to love these places.
Pollos San Juan – grilled chicken
The “pollo asado” (roast chicken) is very popular all over Spain, it’s a classic (not only Spanish, actually). There are big barbecues where they roast lots of chickens to take away. Usually you don’t need the whole thing, but maybe half or a quarter. You can have roasted potatoes or some sauce (typically alioli) with it.
This place is right next to Mercado Central. There’s a few seats outside, but most Spaniards take their chickens home with them. I used to take a quarter from time to time when I didn’t feel like cooking. It’s more than a big lunch for about 7 euros.
Viste – an Argentine classic
A completely miniature place with four seats at the counter on bar stools. And practically the only thing – empanadas. Stuffed bags, as I know them from Argentina. They’re quite common in Spain, available in bakeries and supermarkets. But this! These are the best empanadas I’ve ever had (better than what I had in Argentina, I dare say). The business is owned and operated by Argentinians (mother and son, I think) who have been in Spain for maybe 25 years.
They have classic empanadas with ground beef, spicy, chicken, spinach, mozzarella and tomato. The selection is large, they finish fresh throughout the day and you can have the ones in the display case reheated.
This was my favorite stop for a snack on the way to the beach.
Canasta – bakery
Canasta is a whole chain of bakeries, and there are several in Malaga. One is right on Plaza de la Constitución and has a cafe and outdoor seating. They have really good pastries (I loved the buttery kind, maybe it was more like a giant brioche bread), but also stuffed baguettes and sweets.
Like most bakeries and patisseries in Spain, the queue is by tearing off a piece of paper with a number on it at the entrance and waiting for your turn.
Breakfast and cafes
I spent a lot of time in Málaga after the cafes, they were much better to work in than at home and the breakfasts were better too, if someone made them for me, what can we say.
Brunchit – ideal for brunch
Brunchit leads the rankings on Tripadvisor and everywhere else, so when I tell someone I’ve been to Málaga, it’s often “oh, and do you know Brunchit?”. There are even two Brunchits here, one near the Mercado Central de Atarazanas, the other (bigger) on Calle Carretería (which is the one I went to the vast majority of the time).
They have a hipster breakfast here and used to have a (I don’t know how much now, but pretty cheap) crusty roll with Spanish ham at afternoon snack time. The menu is pretty extensive overall (bagels, cakes, pies, sandwiches, vegetable salads) and it runs on a screen so you can make a visual choice. Coffee is also available.
By the way, Brunchit also has a “branch” in Marbella and Seville and even in Mallorca!
Santa Canela – beware of cinnamon
There are also two Santa Canela cafés in Malaga. One in the centre, the other in Soho. Probably the second best coffee in Malaga, although you have to be careful if you don’t want it covered in cinnamon. Nice to sit in the garden, they have mostly sweet cakes and “ready made” stuff.
Well Piqui – I want that table home!
One of the places that didn’t jump out at me from any “best of Malaga” list of recommended places. I just kept passing by it on my route along Calle Carretería, it looked beautiful until I was tempted.
At No Piqui, they have bagels, bowls, sandwiches, some sweets, and burgers and pizza to eat in addition to the daily specials. All in decent portions, practically nothing (except for the orange juice and the ham sandwiches) here is quite typically Spanish. The top thing for me for a big hunger and blowing off breakfast and lunch all at once is the Yellow hole bagel (bacon, egg, cheddar).
The food is good and made from good ingredients. But most importantly! I loved the table! In addition to the classic tables for 2 or 4, they have one big table for 15 people. A big piece of solid wood. I’ve always just sat at it. Usually without 14 friends, of course, but often by myself during off-peak hours, just with other people.
Dulces dreams
Nice cafe next to Mia coffee. So I’ve never had coffee here, just one frappé and it was delicious. They have the classic cafe menu – breads with ham, cheese, avocado, sweet cakes and lots of good smoothies. There’s seating outside and inside.
Recyclo Bike Cafe
My most frequent office in Malaga. In the end, it was mainly here where I felt most like a regular guest. There’s a bicycle shop next door and it’s somehow connected, so there are bicycles hanging on the ceiling. There’s a big garden and lots of space inside. My office was at the end on this kind of elevated spot above the stairs. Here I sat in the couch, plugged in and lasted all afternoon. Most people sit outside in the summer, there’s always room and more quiet inside (so it’s relatively busy, louder music, but not crowded). The only minus is that it’s not exactly the most light inside.
The service is nice and they have a menu del día, menu for 6 EUR – appetizer, baguette, meal, lemonade. I had the best gazpacho I’ve ever had here. So maybe it wasn’t quite traditional, more peppery and slightly spicy, but great. I guess they have a great breakfast here too, but like I said, afternoon office, I’ve probably never been here before 2pm.
Where to get ice cream in Málaga
And I’ll end on a slightly less optimistic note. I don’t know. In three months, I haven’t been able to find a place downtown that has really good ice cream. In fact, most of the offerings weren’t even worth trying. The ice cream parlors all look very nice and inviting from the outside. But when you go inside and look at the ice cream, you see colors that nature just doesn’t have.
I tried the most talked about local ice cream parlor, even though the color didn’t do it for me, but I couldn’t help it when so many people praised it. Before I even tasted it, I could smell the chemical powder from the ice cream. It had nothing to do with homemade ice cream, it didn’t even taste like real fruit. In the end, I threw it away. I don’t know, I guess it’s true that we are a bit spoiled by really top-quality ice cream from Prague, but this was really too much.
It wasn’t until one of the last days, when we went to a concert in Parque de Huelín, that I saw an ice cream parlor on the way that looked promising. Only we were in a hurry, so we kept walking. On the way out of the event, at almost 1am, they were cleaning up, but still open. I didn’t hesitate to try my luck and sure enough, they were! Homemade ice cream, what a flavor! The ice cream parlor is called Canela en rama (helado artesanal) and is right next to Huelín Park (or well out of the center), which is also worth a visit.
