Granada and the Alhambra: what to see and do

Granada is a beautiful historic city. I stopped here during my roadtrip through Spain and again later when I lived in Málaga. Of course, my favourite thing was the culture of tapas with a free drink, which I experienced here for the first time in Spain back then, but of course the main reason you should want to visit the city is the historical sites, the Alhambra being the first.

Where to stay in Granada

Granada is a city where you want to stay as close to the centre as possible, because you can walk around the most beautiful things. The liveliest area is around the cathedral and Plaza Nueva. Here you have restaurants, tapas bars and good access to the Alhambra. If you want the atmosphere of narrow streets with white houses and views of the Alhambra, head to the Albaicín district. Expect the streets to climb uphill, though, and the cobblestones aren’t exactly a joy to trunk on.

The Realejo district below the Alhambra is a quieter alternative. Lots of street art, local bars and you’re still minutes from the centre. But for a first visit, I’d opt for the Plaza Nueva area, where everything is within easy reach.

Tickets and experiences in Granada

The Alhambra is one of the most visited monuments in Europe and tickets tend to be sold out even weeks ahead. Without booking in advance you won’t get in.

• Alhambra and Nasrid Palaces – guided tour – Includes entry to the Nasrid Palaces, which have an assigned time slot and can’t be entered without a booking.
• Albaicín and Sacromonte – walking tour – Granada’s two most distinctive quarters. A guide takes you through lanes you might otherwise miss.
• Alhambra – night visit – The Alhambra lit up at night is a completely different experience. Night tour capacity is limited, so book ahead.

Alhambra

The Alhambra, literally translated as “Sun Brick”, is a large palace complex in Granada and one of the most important monuments of Moorish architecture in Spain. It was built in the 13th and 14th centuries during the reign of the Muslim dynasties. It is known for its beautiful combination of Islamic and Christian styles, its richly decorated interiors and its Generalife gardens.

Apart from the historical value and architecture, people come here for the great views of the city and the beautiful gardens. The Alhambra is a symbol of masterful Moorish aesthetics.

Tickets to the Alhambra

One of the most important things you should do before travelling to Granada is to purchase tickets to the Alhambra. This complex is one of the most visited monuments in Spain, so tickets often sell out weeks in advance. I therefore recommend that you deal with this at least a month before your trip.

Tickets are booked for specific time windows, so if you’re heading here in the summer, I’d recommend early morning or late afternoon, otherwise it’ll be pretty hot.

From the centre of Granada to the Alhambra

The Alhambra is about 1.5 kilometres from the city centre. Buses C30, C31, C32, C35 run every few minutes from Plaza Isabel la Católica 4, and the bus takes about 6 minutes.

If you walk, the most popular route is from Plaza Nueva, the historic square in the centre of the city, via Cuesta de Gomérez, which leads you to the main gate of the Alhambra. Yes, it’s uphill, but with great views.

Palacios Nazaríes

The Nasrid Palaces are the most important part of the Alhambra and the pinnacle of Muslim architecture. Here you’ll find:

• Palacio Comares – the former residence of the Sultans where the famous Patio de los Arrayanes (myrtle courtyard) with a long water pool surrounded by myrtle trees and the famous Salón de los Embajadores (Hall of Ambassadors) where official audiences were held.
• Palacio de los Leones – this one has a Patio de los Leones (Court of Lions) with a fountain with 12 lions. This courtyard is the symbol of the Alhambra and represents a unique combination of water, architecture and ornamentation.
• Sala de las Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters) and Sala de los Abencerrajes – rooms with beautiful ceiling decorations in the style of muqarnas, reminiscent of the starry sky.

Alcazaba

The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra, which used to be a military fortress. There are towers that you can climb. For example, the Torre de la Vela, from where you have a great view of the whole city and the surrounding mountains.

Palacio de Carlos V

The Renaissance palace built in the 16th century by Emperor Charles V is a contrast to Islamic architecture. It has an inner courtyard with a circular colonnade. The palace also houses the Alhambra Museum, which houses collections of Islamic art and archaeological finds from the Alhambra.

Generalife

Generalife is the summer palace and gardens of the Moorish rulers. It is a place of rest and relaxation, separate from the main complex of the Alhambra. From the Generalife you can enjoy views of the city, the Alhambra and the surrounding Sierra Nevada mountains. The Generalife gardens include:

• Patio de la Acequia – a courtyard with a long water channel, surrounded by flower beds and fountains that create the harmonious sound of water.
• Jardines Altos – terraces and paths full of flowers, trees and views of the Alhambra and surrounding countryside.

Gardens of the Alhambra

The Alhambra is surrounded by magnificent gardens and parks that are meticulously landscaped, full of fountains, water channels, myrtles, cypresses and roses. The main gardens are:

• Jardines de Partal – a garden with ponds and views of the Partal Palace,
• Jardines de Daraxa – a corner with fountains and flower beds near the Nasrid Palaces.

Paseo de los Cipreses and Torre de las Damas

Other attractions are the paths and terraces between the palaces and gardens, such as the cypress avenue that leads to the Torre de las Damas, one of the oldest towers of the Alhambra, with beautiful views.

What else to see in Granada

But of course, Granada is not just the Alhambra. There are more places to visit.

Albaicin

Historic Moorish quarter with narrow, winding streets, white houses and picturesque courtyards. Albaicín is a Unesco World Heritage Site and is famous for its traditional “carmen” houses with gardens.

The place to go in Albaicín is Mirador de San Nicolás, a viewpoint with an iconic view of the Alhambra with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the background. Especially impressive at sunset. It’s by a pretty touristy “plaza” of sorts, people just mainly take (their) pictures here.

A less occupied viewpoint is the Mirador de San Cristóbal, also overlooking the Alhambra. In the Albaicín, the Iglesia de San Salvador and the old 11th-century Arab baths of El Bañuelo, some of the best preserved in Andalusia, are also worth a look.

Catedral de Granada

The Renaissance Cathedral of Our Lady of Granada is right in the centre of the city. It was built on the site of a former mosque after the conquest of Granada by the Catholic kings. Its interior is magnificent, with a splendid altar and ornate chapels.

Capilla Real

This Gothic royal chapel is adjacent to the cathedral and is the final resting place of the Spanish Catholic kings Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castile, who conquered Granada. In the chapel are their sarcophagi, their original crowns and scepters and a collection of valuable works of art and relics.

Monasterio de San Jerónimo

Renaissance monastery, famous for its architecture and beautiful frescoes. The monastery has a quiet courtyard and a baroque church.

Cartuja de Granada

The Carthusian Monastery is just outside the city centre and is one of the best decorated Baroque buildings in Spain. Its interior is rich, with a beautifully decorated sacristy and church.

Calle Calderería Nueva

This street, also known as “Little Morocco“, is full of teahouses (teterías), shops selling Arabic souvenirs, spices and traditional products. It’s a great place with an oriental atmosphere where you can have a real Arabic tea or sweets.

Paseo de los Tristes

The promenade along the Darro River runs along the foot of the Alhambra. It is lined with historic houses and cafés overlooking the Alhambra. A great place to walk and take photos.

Carmen de los Mártires

The park and gardens near the Alhambra are one of the most beautiful and peaceful places in Granada. There are terraces, fountains and, of course, views of the city and the Sierra Nevada mountains.

Sacromonte

A traditional neighborhood on a hill. In Sacromonte, you can visit the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte (Museum of the Cave Houses), which shows the traditional way of life in the caves, or attend a flamenco performance in one of the local venues called“zambras“.

What to taste in Granada

Granada is the place to enjoy both the classics of Spanish cuisine and regional Andalusian specialities. Popular here is the creamy cold soup of garlic, almonds and bread, ajo blanco.

But what is mainly worth mentioning are the free tapas with drinks. It’s a tradition that is observed in some places in Andalusia, but not at all in others. And it’s not just a few olives or nuts to drink, as is common elsewhere. In Granada, it’s very common and, more importantly, quite rich. You practically don’t have to go out for dinner, you have two or three drinks (like sangria, beer or tinto de verano) and get enough tapas to fill you up. It’s similar in Jaén, for example, but in Granada the portions are probably the biggest I’ve experienced anywhere.

Fiesta de la Toma

Every year on 2 January, Granada hosts the Fiesta de la Toma to commemorate the anniversary of the conquest of the city by the Catholic kings Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castile in 1492, which ended the Muslim Nasrid dynasty in Andalusia.

A ceremonial mass is held in the cathedral and a procession in historical costumes, led by the Granada flag, marches through the city.

Where is Granada

Granada is in southern Spain, in Andalusia, in its eastern part. It is an inland city, about 70 kilometres (43 mi) from the Costa Tropical, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. Of the more important Spanish cities, Jaén (about 90 kilometres) and Málaga (about 125 kilometres) are the closest.

When to visit Granada

Like the rest of Andalusia, there are hot summers and mild winters. Although you can come to Sierra Nevada to ski in the winter, it won’t be too cold in town. For more pleasant weather, it’s best to avoid summer and visit Granada and the Alhambra in spring or autumn. Both times I was there in July and it was survivable, but the city is simply red hot.