The Canary Islands: When and Where to Go and What to See

The Canary Islands are my favourite getaway destination before winter, when I don’t feel like or have that much time to go to the exotic, but I need to warm up a bit. My most frequent base is Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, which is a very popular location among digital nomads, but I’ve visited some of the other islands too.

Day trips and experiences in the Canary Islands

The most popular activities in the Canaries sell out ahead of time, especially in season. Whale watching cruises have limited capacity and you essentially won’t get up Teide without a booking.

• Los Gigantes: dolphin and whale watching cruise – The boats have a limited number of spots and only sail a few times a day. In high season it’s sold out even a week ahead.
• Gran Canaria: catamaran with dolphins and snorkelling – The catamaran’s capacity is limited. If you want a specific date, book at least a few days ahead.
• Teide: sunset and stargazing – One of the best things you can do on Tenerife. Groups are small and dates disappear fast.

Archipelago of the Canary Islands

The archipelago consists of 8 inhabited islands and 5 larger uninhabited islands and a few small islands or rather rocks protruding from the sea. The islands were originally inhabited by the Guanche natives, and during the colonization of the islands in the 14th and 15th centuries, several European countries tried to acquire the islands, but in the end it was Spain, more precisely the Crown of Castile, that succeeded.

They were the first to conquer the island of Lanzarote in 1402. The greatest resistance came from the natives of Tenerife and Gran Canaria, but in 1496 the whole of the Canary Islands became part of the Kingdom of Castile and later, after unification, of Spain.

Inhabited Canary Islands

• Tenerife – the largest and most populated island of the archipelago, there is also the highest mountain of the Canary Islands, the volcano Teide.
• Gran Canaria – the island with the most varied climate, the capital Las Palmas is one of the largest in the Canary Islands and every year a spectacular carnival is held here.
• Lanzarote – the island with the most dramatic volcanic landscape.
• Fuerteventura – the windiest Canary Island, famous for its long sandy beaches and popular for windsurfing and kitesurfing.
• La Palma – nicknamed “La Isla Bonita” is often referred to as the most beautiful island and is also popular for astrotourism due to its clear skies.
• La Gomera – an island full of deep ravines and laurel forests.
• El Hierro – the most remote island with rich underwater life.
• La Graciosa – the smallest Canary Island with a small population.

Uninhabited islands

Except for Lobos, the uninhabited islands are inaccessible to the public as part of a protected natural area.

• Lobos – a small island between Fuerteventura and Lanzarote, which you can visit by ferry from Corralejo in Fuerteventura.
• Alegranza – north of Lanzarote, important for bird conservation.
• Montaña Clara – located near Alegranza.
• Roque del Este – a small rocky island northeast of Lanzarote.
• Roque del Oeste – another small rock formation near Lanzarote, part of the Chinijo archipelago.

How to get to the Canary Islands

The Canary Islands have several international airports. Tenerife has two, Tenerife Sur (TFS) and Tenerife Norte (TFN). Then there’s Las Palmas on Gran Canaria (LPA), Lanzarote (ACE), Fuerteventura (FUE) and La Palma (SPC), where flights come mostly from mainland Spain. Which one you fly into depends on which island you’re staying on.

By ferry to the Canaries

If you’re heading to the Canaries for a longer stay and want to travel around, it makes sense to come by car (or motorbike). The journey is long, but an adventure. An ideal choice for roadtrip fans.

Ferries to the Canary Islands leave from Huelva or Cádiz in southwestern Spain. There are also connections from Portugal and Morocco, but Cádiz is the most logical choice. The crossing itself takes another 30 to 40 hours.

The ferries are run by Naviera Armas, Trasmediterránea and Baleària. For 2 people and a car, expect from about 500 euros for a standard seat, up to 1000 euros if you want a cabin. Given how long the trip is, you’ll probably want that cabin. A lot depends on the company and the dates though.

Ferries run about once a week to Gran Canaria (Las Palmas port), Lanzarote (Arrecife port) and Tenerife (Santa Cruz de Tenerife port). From there you can hop on another ferry to the other islands.

Travelling between islands

Trasmediterránea, Naviera Armas, Fred. Olsen Express or Lineas Romero are companies that operate cruises between the islands. It more or less doesn’t matter which one you choose, I’m going more by price and convenient time on this one. Most common routes:

• Fuerteventura (Corralejo) ↔ Lanzarote (Playa Blanca): approx. 35 min, more than 20 times a day
• Gran Canaria (Las Palmas) ↔ Fuerteventura (Morro Jable): approx. 2h, several times a day
• Gran Canaria (Las Palmas) ↔ Tenerife (Santa Cruz de Tenerife): approx. 1h 40min, several times a day
• Gran Canaria (Las Palmas) ↔ Lanzarote (Arrecife): approx. 6h, approx. once a day on weekdays (usually in the direction of Lanzarote night ferry)
• Tenerife (Los Cristianos) ↔ La Gomera (San Sebastián de La Gomera): approx. 50 min, several times a day
• Tenerife (Los Cristianos) ↔ La Palma (Santa Cruz de La Palma): approx. 3h, 3× daily

Usually the travel time varies by direction (due to wind and waves) and actual weather, so take this as an approximate time in the direction I am primarily listing. Different companies also have differently fast boats on some routes. Often Fred. Olsen Express is faster.

The prices start at around 40 euros per person for routes up to 2 hours. For a passenger car approximately the same.

Weather in the Canaries

The Canary Islands are famous for their warm and sunny weather all year round, the climate is mild subtropical. This makes them a popular winter destination, as they are pretty much the only European destination where you’ll be pretty much guaranteed warmth and sunshine in winter.

In winter (December-February) it is usually around 20-23 °C, at night temperatures drop to 15-17 °C. The sea is about 19-20 °C in winter. But the sun shines, it feels warmer.

In summer (July-September): temperatures are around 26-30 °C, reaching up to 35 °C in some areas. At night they drop to 20-23 °C. The sea is 22-23 °C.

I’m used to spending the winter in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria and most of the time on the promenade the thermometer says 27°C. During the day I wear a t-shirt (dress), in the evening it’s down to a jacket. Of course, every island is a little different, even in different areas. The Canaries also have a lot of mountains and it is understandably much colder there.

The warmest island and the warmest sea

In general, Gran Canaria and Tenerife have the hottest weather, especially in the southern parts of the islands. Lanzarote and Fuerteventura tend to be a little drier and often have stronger winds, which can feel cooler, although temperatures are similar. For maximum warmth, the south of Gran Canaria around Playa del Inglés and Maspalomas is probably the best choice.

The sea is usually warmest between August and October, when temperatures reach around 23 °C. The areas around Gran Canaria and Tenerife tend to be slightly warmer due to the more sheltered bays and less currents, and you can swim even during the winter months.

When to go to the Canaries

The best time to visit the Canary Islands depends on what you are looking for in a holiday:

• Carnival – if you want to enjoy a spectacular carnival in Las Palmas or Tenerife, it takes place in February (until early March, lasts about 3 weeks),
• hottest months – if you’re looking for sunshine and warmth, then go in May to October, with the warmest months being July and August,
• quieter season – March to May, it’s after Carnival and those who came to warm up for winter have left, by that time it’s already warm in Europe in more destinations, so the Canaries are not so popular and it can be cheaper,
• Escape from the cold – this is probably the main reason why most people come here, in winter, from November to February it is an ideal retreat.

Which island is the best

Each of the islands has its own thing and everyone may like something a little different. My favourite is Las Palmas, but if we break it down into individual areas, for me it’s like this:

• The best place for nomads – in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, there are several coworking spaces and it’s a place where digital nomads from all over the world gather every year (especially in winter). There is a full city life here.
• The most beautiful nature – La Palma has dense forests and wonderful treks, Tenerife, thanks to the volcano and Gran Canaria for the diverse landscape.
• The most beautiful beaches – Fuerteventura (but beware, here they are beautiful mainly in the sense of looking, otherwise they are quite windy), Gran Canaria in the south of the island.
• Sights and culture – Tenerife has the historic town of La Laguna, cultural festivals and museums. Lanzarote has the artworks of César Manrique. In Gran Canaria, a large carnival is held annually in Las Palmas.
• Hiking – all the islands offer plenty of it, but it is worth highlighting the Garajonay National Park and Forest on La Gomera and the more challenging treks with beautiful nature on La Palma.
• Water sports – Fuerteventura has great wind conditions for windsurfing and kitesurfing, and Gran Canaria has surfing.

Tenerife

The largest and most popular of the Canary Islands, with something for everyone. From the vibrant nightlife of Playa de las Americas to the beautiful scenery of Mount Teide.

The most striking symbol of the island is the Teide volcano, the highest mountain in Spain and the third largest volcano in the world. A trip to Teide National Park means a walk through unique volcanic landscapes that resemble the lunar surface.

Tenerife is also one of the few places in the world where you can book professional-quality night tours and stargazing – the clear skies make the observatory one of the most important in the northern hemisphere.

The historic town of San Cristóbal de La Laguna is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It features well-preserved colonial architecture and cobbled streets lined with traditional colourful houses.

Around the town of Garachico, you can swim in natural volcanic pools (such as the Charco de la Laja), which were created after a volcanic eruption in the 18th century, creating a beautiful and very photogenic natural phenomenon.

Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria is often referred to as the “miniature continent” due to the diversity of its natural scenery and microclimate, which I think makes it the most different from the other Canary Islands. It’s literally the case that during a roadtrip around the island you will pass through several climate zones, without exaggeration around every corner it can look different. One minute you’re on a sun-drenched beach, the next you’re in the misty mountains, the next you’re in the desert, and the next you’re in a landscape of green.

The island is dominated by the Maspalomas sand dunes in the south, which resemble the African desert and offer a unique contrast with the azure Atlantic. Beautiful at sunset, when the sand turns golden.

Gran Canaria is also a paradise for mountain and trekking enthusiasts – iconic rock formations such as Roque Nublo and Pico de las Nieves are in the central mountainous area and provide breathtaking views of the island and the distant peaks of Teide in Tenerife.

For history and culture, head to the town of Teror, known for its traditional Canarian architecture with wooden balconies, colonnades and pilgrimage churches. There’s also a nice market on weekends.

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is one of the oldest port cities. In the Vegueta district you will find colonial buildings, including the Christopher Columbus House. Las Palmas has a beautiful urban beach, Las Canteras, lined with a long promenade with restaurants.

Lanzarote

Lanzarote is an island that resembles a lunar landscape. The biggest attraction of the island is the Timanfaya National Park, where there are more than a hundred volcanoes and lava fields. Due to the effects of recent eruptions (the last in 1824), the landscape has deep black, red and orange hues. There are also hot springs in the park.

Another important feature of Lanzarote is the artwork of local native, César Manrique, who left his mark all over the island. Among the most important are the Jameos del Agua and the Cueva de los Verdes, two volcanic caves that he transformed into cultural and relaxation spaces with ponds, lighting and a design that harmonises with nature.

Mirador del Río, a viewpoint on the north coast, overlooks the neighbouring islet of La Graciosa. Lanzarote is also home to La Geria, a wine-growing area where wine is grown in unique volcanic soils.

Fuerteventura

Fuerteventura is renowned for its long sandy beaches and wild coastal scenery, making it different from the rest of the Canary Islands. The biggest attractions are the beaches of Corralejo with its 10 kilometres of sand dunes in the north and Cofete in the south.

Fuerteventura has a unique volcanic landscape and traditional villages. A popular trek is to the Calderón Hondo volcano, where you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding craters and the ocean.

The town of Betancuria, the former capital of the island, is worth a visit, where the white colonial-style houses are surrounded by greenery and palm trees, which is quite an exception on arid Fuerteventura. Fuerteventura is also famous for its goat farms and the production of traditional Majorero cheese.

A short distance from Fuerteventura is the uninhabited island of Lobos, where you can take a day trip.

La Palma

La Palma is a very green island with volcanic craters and dark beaches. One of the main attractions is the Caldera de Taburiente, a huge volcanic crater that forms a national park full of dense forests, mountain streams and waterfalls. The crater is surrounded by peaks reaching up to 2,400 metres, and although the hiking is more challenging, it offers beautiful views, for example from the summit of Roque de los Muchachos. It is also home to the famous observatory, one of the best places in the world for stargazing thanks to its clear skies and minimal light pollution.

In the south of the island there are volcanic trails that lead through the Cumbre Vieja area, where the last volcanic eruption occurred in 2021. The hike known as the Ruta de los Volcanes is a popular route with fascinating volcanic landscapes and beautiful views.

La Palma also has beautiful natural pools, such as Charco Azul and La Fajana on the north coast. Finally, La Palma has pretty colonial towns like Santa Cruz de La Palma, the capital with its cobbled streets, colourful balconies and ancient churches.

La Gomera

A small island with laurel forests. The Garajonay Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and besides the unique plants, there are also nice views.

Unique to La Gomera is the whistling Silbo Gomero language, an ancient form of communication that evolved due to the island’s complicated terrain. This technique, where people whistle words over long distances, is even listed as an intangible heritage by UNESCO. To this day, Silbo is still taught in schools and, with a bit of luck, can be overheard by locals.

The capital city of San Sebastián de La Gomera, where Christopher Columbus stopped on his voyage to the New World, allows you to visit the buildings associated with his stay, such as the Casa de Colón.

The village of Agulo is considered one of the most beautiful villages in the Canary Islands.

El Hierro

El Hierro is a paradise for lovers of peace, nature and ecotourism. There is no greater authenticity in the Canaries. The underwater world is also unique and it is a popular destination for diving. La Restinga, on the south coast, offers crystal clear water, underwater lava formations and abundant marine fauna, including rays, barracudas and dolphins. The Mar de las Calmas underwater reserve is a diver’s paradise.

The island aims to become the first island in the world to be completely self-sufficient in renewable energy. The Gorona del Viento wind and hydroelectric power plant is an example of how the island community is working towards ecological independence and is open to visitors.

Of note is El Sabinar, an area of twisted juniper trees that have been shaped by strong winds over centuries and look like works of art by nature. A beautiful view can be seen from the Mirador de la Peña, a lookout designed by the famous Canarian architect César Manrique.

La Graciosa

An island north of Lanzarote, one of the last European places without asphalt roads, which gives it a unique atmosphere. La Graciosa has only 29 km² and less than a thousand inhabitants. Ferries run here from Órzola on Lanzarote, a journey that takes half an hour.

Playa de las Conchas is one of the most beautiful beaches, overlooking the nearby island of Montaña Clara. Playa Francesa is another popular beach, not least among yachtsmen. The beaches here are clean and quiet thanks to the absence of many tourists.

The main town, Caleta del Sebo, is a small fishing village with sandy streets, a few restaurants and simple accommodation. You can get around the island on foot, by bike or by all-terrain vehicle. La Graciosa is a protected natural area and is part of the Chinijo Archipelago National Park, so the local nature is preserved in its natural state.

What to taste in the Canary Islands

Canarian cuisine combines Spanish, Latin American and African influences. Typical are papas arrugadas con mojo, small potatoes cooked in their skins in salty water with a spicy mojo sauce. A speciality is gofio, a roasted cereal flour used by the indigenous Guanche people, which is used as a side dish and added to soups, sauces and desserts.

Of the fish, it is worth mentioning the sancocho canario, a traditional stew with potatoes and gofio, often seasoned with mojo sauces. For meat, there’s conejo en salmorejo, braised rabbit marinated in a mixture of herbs and spices.

For dessert, there’s bienmesabe, a sweet paste of almonds, honey and cinnamon, served with vanilla ice cream. Or my favourite, polvito uruguyao. But don’t forget the traditional Spanish specialities like paella and tapas.

Where are the Canary Islands

The Canary Islands are about 100 kilometres west of Morocco in Africa. Politically, however, they belong to Europe, to Spain.