What to See in AlUla and Hegra, Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia is vast, and so far I’ve only seen Jeddah and the area around AlUla, which isn’t really enough for me to be in a position to rank the places. In any case, the natural landscape – by which I mean mainly the desert and the impressive sandstone rock formations – is definitely among the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen. Tourism is booming here, so there’s still the chance to enjoy both – the great effort and care put in by the locals, as well as the peace and space in places that aren’t yet overrun by tourists.

In a nutshell:

• Hegra (Madain Salih) is the main reason to visit AlUla. The Nabataean tombs carved into the sandstone cliffs are similar to those at Petra in Jordan, but without the crowds.
• The whole area is vast and the individual sites are far apart. You won’t get anywhere here without a car or an organised tour.
• For most attractions, including Hegra, you need to buy a ticket in advance with a specific time slot.
• The old town of AlUla (Al-Deerah) has been beautifully restored and is well worth a stroll. There are cafés, galleries and views of the surrounding rocks.
• The best time to visit is from October to March. In summer, temperatures are extreme and most attractions may be closed.

AlUla won me over almost as soon as I arrived at the airport. It’s a small airport, with no more than about five departures and arrivals a day, surrounded by mountains; it looks quite new, and in the arrivals hall (which you reach about three minutes after getting off the plane) you’re given a very warm welcome and offered coffee with cardamom and dates. AlUla is still relatively undiscovered, as Saudi Arabia was closed to tourism for a long time, right up until 2019 (and then, just as it opened up, Covid hit and the borders were closed again). Naturally, this appealed to me, and you can really tell from the local tourism scene – on the one hand, you can see how hard they’re trying; on the other, it’s clear they don’t have much experience with tourists and haven’t quite got the hang of certain things yet.

Where to stay in AlUla

Accommodation in AlUla is quite expensive. We stayed south of the city centre, where we found fairly cheap accommodation, but in terms of location, it’s best to stay either in the city centre or, if you have a car, north of the centre, as that’s where all the local highlights are.

You can stay in a traditional hotel in the city, or try glamping in the desert – it’s definitely an experience worth considering here.

Tickets, excursions and experiences in AlUla

Most of the main attractions in AlUla require advance booking. Some sites cannot be visited at all without an organised tour, whilst at others, a guide will provide you with background information that you wouldn’t otherwise have.

Petra and Wadi Rum in Jordan versus Hegra and AlUla in Saudi Arabia

Have you ever been to Petra in Jordan? Or to the desert in Wadi Rum? If so, AlUla will remind you a great deal of those places. It’s no wonder. The rocky region of Petra, which is one of the best-known and most admired tourist destinations, stretches from there all the way to Arabia, to AlUla. Yes, Jordan is much better known, but most of it is actually in Arabia.

Nor is the resemblance between Hegra and the tombs carved into the rock a coincidence. When the oases in Petra dried up, the local inhabitants, the Nabataeans, headed here to AlUla and settled this 52-hectare site in the 2nd century BC, both for the water and for its good strategic location and view of the surrounding area. It was just over 500 kilometres from their home.

I can well imagine that even just the drive along the road from the Jordanian border (or directly from Petra) to AlUla must be a wonderful experience, full of breathtaking views of the rocks.

What to see in AlUla

AlUla is vast and spread out over a large area. The individual sites are far apart, so you need to travel between them by car. For me, it’s one of the most visually striking destinations I’ve ever seen. The rock formations, desert landscape and ancient ruins create a backdrop that has little rival in the region (apart from Jordan).

Hegra

Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site, is, as I mentioned, quite reminiscent of the rock-cut city of Petra in Jordan.

It’s not possible to get there on your own; access is restricted to official buses, jeeps and horse-drawn carriages. If you think you can just get anywhere somehow, because surely no one can fence off a desert full of giant rocks, well, think again. They can!

Buy your ticket to Hegra in advance to be on the safe side.

You need to buy a ticket and make use of the guides. The site is quite extensive, so it’s not really suitable for a walk.  You can, however, drive right up to the entrance; there’s a large car park. For some reason, the staff at the visitor centre told us that there were no tickets left for today, yet when we arrived, it wasn’t a problem at all and there was hardly anyone there. We certainly weren’t the only ones to have this experience, and I’m not sure, but it does seem a bit as though they’re marketing the place on the basis of exclusivity and scarcity. So if you’re heading there, bear this in mind and don’t let yourself be put off at the first hurdle.

The tour of Hegra comprises four stops:

• Jabal AlAhmar – named after the red colour of the rock in which 18 tombs were discovered.
• The Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza – for reasons unknown, this 21-metre-high tomb was never completed, but thanks to this we now know that the tombs were built (or rather, carved out of the rock) from top to bottom. Had it been completed, it would have been the largest here. Another interesting fact is that, unlike all the other tombs, this one was not intended for a family; instead, Lihyan had it built solely for himself.
• Jabal AlBanat – 29 tombs carved from all sides of a large sandstone rock, which were built for women. It is possible to enter one of the tombs; there are ‘shelves’ carved into the rock, one above the other, where the bodies were laid to rest.
• Jabal Ithlib – a large hall with a fine view of the countryside, designed for celebrations and social gatherings.

The Nabataeans were highly skilled in drainage; their structures feature channels to carry water away, which is why these sandstone structures have not crumbled to this day. Elsewhere, however, in AlUla, you can see on many sandstone formations how a piece has broken off, typically in quite an interesting way, creating a completely flat rock face.

The whole tour lasts about two hours (more like two and a half), and typical Arab hospitality is on offer here too; whilst we were waiting for the bus and after we returned, we were offered fresh orange juice and dried fruit.

In addition, there’s also the option of a night-time visit – ‘Hegra after dark’ – where you’re taken to a spot lit by candlelight, supposedly so you can experience the atmosphere just as the locals do. We didn’t go there, but I can imagine it’s a lovely experience.

Elephant Rock

A 50-metre-long rock that looks a bit like an elephant and has therefore become the (second) main attraction in AlUla. I’d imagined a rock out in the open countryside that might attract a few visitors. But that’s not how it is at all. It’s a fully-fledged tourist attraction, complete with Salt (a burger joint), a café and plenty of places to sit on cushions in hollows in the sand or on four-poster beds. Music plays here, and after dark, the word ‘AlUla’ is projected onto the rock next door. For a moment I wondered if it was a bit too touristy, but it’s been put together quite thoughtfully and has its own atmosphere, which is lovely – even after dark, when the torches are lit, it’s really worth seeing.

Dadan and Jabal Ikmah

The city of Dadan, capital of the kingdoms of Dadan and Lihyan. Jabal Ikmah features numerous ancient inscriptions carved into the rock in five different languages, mostly dating from the Dadanite and Lihyanite periods. However, an admission ticket is required here too.

Al Mabyiat (Old Town)

During the day, the Old Town is a quiet, wide street lined with shops selling local produce and souvenirs, as well as cafés and restaurants with outdoor seating. In the evening, it’s a street teeming with people, beautifully lit, with the aroma of food in the air and a real buzz about it.

Oasis Heritage Trail

Practically just across the road from the old town is a fairly large vegetable garden (or small farm) where all sorts of vegetables are grown, and it’s a lovely place for a stroll. There were things like kohlrabi and tomatoes – nothing unusual – but, surrounded by a palm grove, beyond which lay a vast desert dotted with rocky massifs, the whole scene felt completely different from a typical country garden.

Sunrise over AlUla – Harrat viewpoint

Just above AlUla is the famous Harrat viewpoint. It’s right above the town, but to get there you have to take a detour via Winter Park, which takes about 20 minutes. We set off to catch the sunrise, which was beautiful, but we could only see it from the side because the road was blocked by a security guard’s car – he doesn’t let anyone through before ten o’clock. So the view was brilliant, but not at 7 am. However, the security guard took pity on us and led us to a spot where we had a lovely view.

There’s also (right on the headland) a brilliant Greek restaurant for breakfast, called Okto. So we didn’t go there either.

Maraya

A huge building nestled amongst the rocks in the desert, with a restaurant, a café and a bit of art here and there. The key thing, though, is that the walls of the entire building are made of mirrors, so the surrounding rocks, sand and sky are beautifully reflected in them. As the largest mirrored building in the world, it’s even in the Guinness Book of Records. So it’s not exactly a natural landmark, but it’s got a certain charm. We were there just before sunset and it was well worth it.

The Maraya Social rooftop restaurant is run by the English Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton.

Stargazing in Al Gharameel

The stars can be seen beautifully in many places here, but the experience is several levels better at Al Gharameel, where a local storyteller (Rawi) sits with you on a carpet in the traditional style and recounts fairy tales linked to individual stars and constellations. There’s no light pollution here, and in the pitch black you can even see the Milky Way. Unfortunately, we had to skip this part, mainly because it’s combined with dinner and, including the journey, it takes from around 6 pm until midnight, which we simply couldn’t fit into our packed schedule. So, next time!

Citrus Festival in AlUla

You probably won’t be lucky enough to catch it – it takes place one weekend a year in January – but we were lucky enough to go, and as I’d never been to anything like it before, it was quite an experience. Basically, it’s a sort of farmers’ market selling nothing but citrus fruits. A minibus took us from a nearby car park to the site, which was a bit further out in the desert, and, as is traditional, we were given a cup of cardamom coffee at the entrance. And then everywhere you looked there were just Jaffa oranges and Helio lemons. And a huge variety of different types that I’d never seen before. Of course, there was the option to buy oranges or orange juice, but also some pancakes with marmalade and the like.

Where to eat in AlUla

We had an excellent classic Arabic lunch – chicken mandi with rice – at the traditional AlUla Heritage Restaurants & Kitchen; including drinks and kunafa (which was a bit of a let-down), it cost 65 riyals for three people. It’s a short way out of town, but well worth the trip. We had a lovely dinner al fresco at Al Nakheel, right on the main street in the historic centre. A bit more upmarket, but a brilliant dinner featuring Arabic cuisine – and some great mocktails – at Somewhere.

More fun and adventure in AlUla

• You can enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the area around Hegra from a hot-air balloon.
• A 30-minute aerial tour is also available by helicopter; the route covers the main highlights, from Elephant Rock, via Hegra and the railway, to Maraya.
• A horse ride.
• Winter Park offers climbing activities, while Husaak Adventures offers everything from quad biking and stargazing to camping in the desert.
• The Hijaz Railway.
• Hegra Fort.

Where is AlUla?

AlUla is situated in north-western Saudi Arabia, in the province of Medina. It is about 300 km north of Medina and roughly 900 km from Riyadh. The city lies in a narrow valley between sandstone cliffs in the Hijaz Desert, on the edge of a large desert plateau. It is about 200 km as the crow flies from the Red Sea coast.

How to get to AlUla

By plane. The Prince Abdul Majeed bin Abdulaziz Airport (ULH) is 25 kilometres south-east of AlUla. Within Saudi Arabia you can fly in directly from Riyadh, Jeddah or Dammam. From abroad the nearest direct connection is Dubai, but there are also direct flights from places like Cairo, Sofia or Paris. As interest in Saudi tourism grows, I imagine the options will only expand.

You can also come by car, but Saudi Arabia is a big country. This is really for those going on a proper road trip. It’s a 7.5-hour drive from Jeddah, 3.5 hours from Medina, and just under 7 hours from Petra in Jordan.

Entry into the country – visas for Saudi Arabia

Visas can be obtained in advance online, or ‘on arrival’ directly at the airport. We’d already got ours in Jeddah, where we flew into Saudi Arabia. At the self-service kiosk, you simply insert your passport, enter your details, have your fingerprints scanned, pay, and then take the receipt to customs, where they’ll check your details and fingerprints and stamp your passport. The visas cost 480 Saudi riyals, but the advantage is that they’re valid for a whole year (provided you don’t replace your passport or anything like that in the meantime), so for that price you can visit Saudi Arabia several times, although each stay is limited to a maximum of 90 days.

More tours and experiences in AlUla