Oslo: What to See and Where to Go on the Shores of the Oslofjord

To me, Oslo is a metropolis with the tranquillity of a coastal town. In July, it didn’t even strike me that there were many people here. Most people probably head south in the summer, and those who do go north tend to head for the fjords on Norway’s west coast. In any case, sitting here by the Opera House with a view of the sea, strolling through the park or popping into a quiet little café for a coffee – that really suited me here.

Before you start reading, here’s the main point:

• Oslo is one of the most expensive cities in Europe; bear this in mind, particularly when it comes to food, but also transport.
• There’s a beautiful view of the fjord from the roof of the Opera House, which you’re free to walk up to.
• You can also reach the Bygdøy peninsula, home to the main museums (the Viking ships, the Fram and the Kon-Tiki), by boat from the city centre.
• Ferries run from the city centre to the small islands in the Oslofjord – the perfect half-day trip.
• Public transport across the city can be used with a single ticket via the Ruter app: buses, trams, the metro and ferries.

Where to stay in Oslo

Accommodation in Oslo isn’t cheap. The easiest option is to stay in the city centre, Sentrum, from where you can walk to the opera house, the harbour and the main street. If you’re looking for cafés and a livelier atmosphere, head to Grünerløkka, a former industrial district just a short distance from the centre. And if you want to stay right by the water, try Aker Brygge by the harbour. It’s the most expensive option and quite touristy, but then again, it’s by the water and that’s lovely.

Tickets and things to do in Oslo

Fjord cruises and wooden boat cruises have limited capacity in the summer, so be sure to book them a few days in advance.

• Fjord cruise – a two-hour cruise on a traditional wooden sailing ship. It winds its way between the islets right in the Oslofjord, taking you to places you can’t see from the mainland.
• Viking Planet – a ticket to the digital Viking museum, including a VR film. It features a VR experience where you’ll fly over Oslo as it looked in those days.

What to see in Oslo

You can explore Oslo on foot; the main attractions are all close together. The museums on Bygdøy and Vigeland Park are a bit out of the way, but they’re easy to get to. Two days are easily enough for the city – or even just one if you skip the museums – so save the rest of your time for trips outside the city.

Opera House

For me, it’s definitely the number one attraction in the city. The light-grey building by the water looks like an ice floe leaning right into the fjord. You can walk all the way to the top along the sloping marble roof. You simply walk along the roof of the building as if it were a normal flight of stairs.

From up here, there’s a view of the fjord, the harbour and the city behind you. Perhaps the most beautiful spot in Oslo. I’ve been here many times; it looks a little different every time. Blue by day, golden in the early evening.

The Aker Brygge promenade and the Tjuvholmen district

From the opera house, you can walk along the waterfront all the way to Aker Brygge, a harbour promenade full of restaurants and benches. You can sit here and enjoy the view of the fjord; boats are moored here and it’s a lovely walk.

Beyond the promenade lies the new Tjuvholmen district, with modern buildings by the water and a few outdoor sculptures. You can easily walk here and stroll the whole length of the harbour.

Karl Johans gate

The city’s main thoroughfare runs from the railway station to the Royal Palace. It is a pedestrianised street lined with shops, cafés and people, providing a natural starting point for a stroll through the city centre. On the way, you’ll pass the cathedral, the university and the National Theatre. It ends at the park in front of the Royal Palace.

Akershus Fortress

A medieval fortress situated directly above the harbour. The ramparts and courtyards are open to the public and are well worth a visit, particularly for the views. From the top, you can see the fjord, the harbour and Aker Brygge on the other side.

Town Hall (Rådhuset)

A brick building with two towers by the harbour that’s impossible to miss. This is where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year. It looks rather austere from the outside, but inside there’s a main hall with large murals. Entry is free and you can see it all quite quickly.

The Royal Palace and its park

The palace stands on a hill at the end of Karl Johans gate. You can only go inside for a guided tour in the summer, but for me the main attraction is the park around it. It’s a large public park where even locals go just to sit and relax. There are guards standing in front of the palace, and the changing of the guard usually takes place around midday.

Vigeland Park (Frogner Park)

A large park just a short distance from the city centre, filled entirely with sculptures by Gustav Vigeland. These are bronze and stone figures – over 200 sculptures in total, depicting nude figures in every conceivable pose. The park’s centrepiece is a 17-metre-high monolith formed from 121 intertwined bodies.

It’s a large park; you can pop in just for a walk or perhaps a picnic. You can get there by tram, heading towards Majorstuen.

The MUNCH Museum

A new, slanted skyscraper right next to the opera house. Inside hangs Norway’s most famous painting, The Scream by Edvard Munch. As well as the paintings, there’s the classic view from the top floor of the fjord and the city – it’s well worth going all the way to the top just for that. You can also skip the art section if that’s not your thing.

Not far from the town hall is the Nasjonalmuseet (National Museum), where the second version of The Scream is on display, so you could go there to see it too, but one Munch museum in the city is more than enough for me.

The Grünerløkka district and the River Akerselva

A former industrial district, now full of cafés, small shops and street art. A lovely neighbourhood for a stroll; lots of locals come here. The Akerselva river runs right through it, and you can walk along its banks past old factories and waterfalls.

The Bygdøy Peninsula and its museums

The peninsula across the fjord, home to three of Oslo’s main museums:

• The Viking Ship Museum, featuring preserved ships from the ninth century,
• Fram, with its original polar ship,
• The Kon-Tiki with Thor Heyerdahl’s balsa raft.

There’s a direct bus service from the city centre all year round, but in the summer you can take the boat (on the same ticket), which is definitely the more fun option.

The Cathedral (Oslo Domkirke)

A brick cathedral right in the centre, on Karl Johans gate. It’s not the sort of majestic cathedral you might expect; it’s more like a church. Inside, the painted ceiling is well worth a look. You can walk through it in a couple of minutes, but if you’re passing by, there’s no reason to give it a miss.

What to try in Oslo

Norwegian cuisine is mainly based on fish and meat, but in Oslo you can enjoy a good meal even beyond the traditional fish fare. I started with something sweet. Skillingsboller is a large cinnamon bun that you’ll find in almost every café – perfect with an afternoon coffee. A Norwegian speciality is brunost, a brown cheese with a caramel colour and a slightly sweet taste. It looks like caramel, but it’s actually cheese – quite a distinctive thing, and not necessarily to everyone’s taste. And then there are vafler, Norwegian heart-shaped waffles, which are served with brunost or jam.

For a hearty meal, try kjøttkaker – Norwegian meatballs served with sauce and cranberries. As for fish, there’s reker – fresh prawns that you can buy straight from a stall at the harbour and eat there and then. That’s just part of life in a town by the water.

Where to go on a day trip from Oslo

The best day trip from Oslo isn’t by road, but by water. Ferries run directly from the city centre out into the fjord, and for me, it’s the best half-day trip you can take from Oslo.

Islets in the Oslofjord

Public ferries run from the harbour to several small islands right in the fjord. The nearest is Hovedøya, where there are the ruins of an old monastery, meadows and, in summer, places to swim. Further afield is Gressholmen, which is quieter and more rural. The crossing is short, but the boat journey between the islands is an experience in itself.

Ferries run on the same ticket as public transport (via the Ruter app), so you don’t need to worry about buying a separate ticket. In summer, you can easily spend half a day on the island – walking around, having a snack and just sitting by the water. For me, it’s a no-brainer when the weather’s nice.

Fredrikstad

An old fortified town about an hour’s train journey south of Oslo. It has a well-preserved star-shaped fortress with ramparts and an old quarter with cobbled streets. It’s lovely, but it’s really more of an extra day’s trip. If you’re only in Oslo for two or three days, you’re better off sticking to the fjord and the islands.

When to go and practical information

Summer is the best time of year. The days here in June and July are extremely long, it’s light outside almost all the time, and all the boat trips around the fjord and to the islands are well worth it. In winter, the days are short and very dark. If you want to enjoy Oslo outdoors on walks, visit between May and September.

Oslo is one of the most expensive cities in Europe; when it comes to food, you can easily expect to pay three times as much as you would in the south.

Transport in Oslo

Public transport in the city is standardised and very straightforward. Trams, the metro, buses and ferries (including the ferry to Bygdøy and the islands in the fjord) can all be used with one and the same ticket. So you don’t need to worry about which mode of transport you’re using – the ticket is valid for everything. The easiest way to buy one is via the Ruter app.

A single-use transfer ticket (e.g. bus to the harbour + ferry) costs 46 NOK and is valid for 60 minutes. A 24-hour ticket costs 137 NOK, and a seven-day ticket costs 379 NOK.

Where is Oslo?

Oslo lies in the south of Norway, at the very end of the Oslofjord. From here, the fjord stretches far south towards the open sea. It is surrounded by wooded hills, with the forest beginning just outside the city. Further north lies Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, which is about a four-hour drive away.

How to get to Oslo

The easiest way is by plane. Flights arrive at Oslo Gardermoen Airport (OSL), which is about 45 kilometres north of the city. Within Scandinavia you can also get here easily by train or car. From Stockholm it’s about a four-hour drive.

There’s a train from the airport to the city centre and you have two options. The faster one is the Flytoget express, which gets you into the centre in just under 20 minutes but costs 268 NOK. The cheaper option is the regular regional Vy train, which takes 25–30 minutes and costs roughly half. What’s more, the fare includes a transfer onto Oslo’s public transport network (a ticket you’d have to buy separately via the Ruter app with Flytoget if you’re not walking to your accommodation).

Tips for other things to do in Oslo