What to See in Valletta: Best Places and Tips

Valletta is tiny, but packed to bursting. The entire historic centre fits within a small peninsula surrounded by walls. You can walk from one end to the other in twenty minutes. But that’s not really possible, because you’ll find yourself stopping every few moments to take in the view. The streets here rise and fall in a regular grid pattern, and almost every one of them ends at the sea on one side.

Baroque architecture, honey-coloured stone and water all around. Valletta is one of Europe’s smallest capital cities and is listed in its entirety as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I think it’s brilliant that you can explore it on foot and there’s always something to see. Add to that Maltese cuisine, which is a lovely blend of Mediterranean flavours and something uniquely Maltese. There’s plenty to see in the city centre, but you can also easily hop on a boat from there to visit the surrounding islands.

If you don’t have time to read the whole article, here are the key points:

• Valletta is tiny; you can walk through the historic centre in twenty minutes – forget about driving here.
• The best view of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities is from the Upper Barrakka Gardens, ideally timed to coincide with the midday cannon shot from the Saluting Battery.
• There are two Caravaggio paintings on display in St John’s Cathedral, and the interior is entirely gold; expect a queue and expect it to be busy.
• Have some pastizzi – crispy pastries filled with ricotta – with your coffee, and do try fenkata – stewed rabbit – which is Malta’s number one speciality.
• From the city centre, you can take a boat to Comino and the Blue Lagoon, or a ferry to the neighbouring island of Gozo – allow a whole day for this.

Where to stay in Valletta

Staying right in the centre of Valletta, within the city walls, is the best option in my view. It may be a tiny peninsula, but everything is within walking distance, and in the evening, once the crowds from the cruise ships have dispersed, there’s a completely different atmosphere. There are quite a few boutique hotels in historic honey-coloured stone buildings here, and you’ll find a lovely place to stay practically anywhere in the centre. Bear in mind, though, that it’s more expensive and you won’t be able to drive here – the streets are narrow and many of them are uphill.

If you’re looking for more of a lively atmosphere, bars and nightlife, stay across the bay in Sliema or St Julian’s. From these neighbourhoods, you’ll have a view across the water back towards Valletta, and you can reach the city centre by boat in just a few minutes. Sliema is quieter and is also ideal for swimming along the coast, whilst St Julian’s is livelier and is mainly popular for its nightlife.

Tickets, day trips and experiences in Valletta

St John’s Co-Cathedral operates on a time-slot basis and books up well in advance during the high season; trips to Gozo and the Blue Lagoon are full-day tours with limited capacity.

• Mdina, 3 Cities and Gozo – a three-day guided tour; places are limited, so please book in advance.
• Shore excursion from the ship – a full-day trip for cruise ship passengers, timed to coincide with the ship’s arrival.
• Evening walk – a tour with a local guide; small groups are booked in advance.
• Valletta and the cathedral – a half-day tour including entry to St John’s Co-Cathedral, where time slots apply.
• Mdina and Rabat by night – an evening trip from the waterfront; it’s run as an organised tour, otherwise you won’t be able to get there on your own.

What to see in Valletta

Valletta is tiny, so I won’t be dividing it into districts here. You can walk everywhere, and the main thoroughfare is Republic Street, which runs the length of the peninsula. I’ll outline the route roughly in the order you’ll encounter the sights, starting from the city gate and heading down towards Fort St Elmo. You’ll need a day to see the main sights – or even a day and a half if you fancy stopping for a bit.

City Gate and Republic Street

You enter Valletta through the modern City Gate, designed by architect Renzo Piano. It’s a rather minimalist gate; just beyond it stands the new parliament building, which looks as if it’s made of Lego, and the ruins of the old opera house, which have been converted into an open-air theatre. I found it an interesting contrast to the old stone buildings all around.

Republic Street, the main pedestrianised high street, runs straight through the whole town from the gate. There are shops and cafés here, and as you walk down, you pass most of the main sights. It’s a sort of natural starting point for a stroll – you simply start here and set off.

Upper Barrakka Gardens

If I had to pick just one place in Valletta, it would be the Upper Barrakka Gardens. A small garden at the top of the ramparts, offering the best views of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities across the water. The harbour below you, the fortifications, the boats. Truly stunning. Entry is free and it’s just a short walk from City Gate.

Time your visit for midday to see the Saluting Battery down below the garden. The rest of the day is lovely just sitting here in the shade and looking down at the harbour.

Saluting Battery

Just below the Upper Barrakka Gardens is the Saluting Battery, a row of historic cannons pointing towards the harbour. Every day at 12.00, a midday cannon shot is fired here, with a second one at 16.00. It’s a bit of a little show, with the gunners in period uniforms; it’s best to arrive a few minutes early and grab a spot by the railing in the garden above. There’s an admission charge to go down to the cannons themselves, but as far as I’m concerned, watching from above for free is enough.

Lower Barrakka Gardens

The second set of gardens on the ramparts, a little further on towards Fort St Elmo. The Lower Barrakka Gardens are smaller and quieter than the upper ones, and there are fewer tourists here too. The view from here is mainly of the harbour entrance and the sea. There’s a neoclassical monument here, modelled on an ancient temple. A nice place to stop if you want to escape the crowds on Republic Street.

St John’s Cathedral

From the outside, St John’s Co-Cathedral looks rather austere, almost like a fortress. Inside, however, it’s the complete opposite: everything is gilded, the floor is paved with the tombstones of knights, and the ceiling is painted with scenes from the life of St John. For me, it’s one of the most ornate church buildings I’ve ever seen.

The main attraction is the oratory with two paintings by Caravaggio, including the enormous *The Beheading of St John the Baptist*. Expect queues, especially in the morning when the cruise ships arrive. Shoulders and knees must be covered; scarves are available for ladies to borrow at the entrance. Buy your ticket online in advance to save yourself the wait.

The Grand Master’s Palace and St George’s Square

The Grandmaster’s Palace stands on St George’s Square and was once the seat of the Grand Masters of the Order of Malta. Today, part of the interior is open to the public, mainly the state rooms with their tapestries and the armoury with its historical armour and weapons. The square in front of the palace is a large open space with fountains built into the paving, where children cool off in the summer.

Fort St Elmo and the National War Museum

At the very tip of the peninsula, where Republic Street ends at the sea, stands Fort St Elmo. It played a key role during the Great Siege of Malta by the Turks in 1565. Today, it houses the National War Museum, which traces the island’s military history from prehistoric times to the Second World War. Malta was awarded the collective George Cross for its resistance during the war, and this is also featured on the Maltese flag. If military history isn’t your thing, feel free to give it a miss and simply enjoy the view of the fort from the outside.

Casa Rocca Piccola

Casa Rocca Piccola is a private palace on Republic Street that is still home to a Maltese noble family. Part of it is open to the public as part of a guided tour, and it is one of the few places where you can see what life was really like – and still is – in a Maltese palace of this kind. The rooms are furnished with furniture, paintings and family heirlooms, and the complex also includes air-raid shelters carved into the rock beneath the house. For me, it was a welcome change from the grand, ostentatious monuments; this is much more personal.

Merchant Street and Is-Suq tal-Belt

Merchant Street runs parallel to Republic Street and is a little less polished; during the day, there’s usually a street market here selling souvenirs and clothes. On the same street is Is-Suq tal-Belt, the city market housed in a beautifully restored historic building. Today, it’s mainly a food hall with dozens of stalls where you can wander around and grab a bite to eat, but I’ll write more about that below in the section on food.

Manoel Theatre

The Manoel Theatre is one of the oldest functioning theatres in Europe, having opened as far back as 1732. It is tiny – almost charming for a Baroque theatre – with three tiers of ornate boxes and a painted ceiling. You can take a tour here even when there’s no performance on. I’d say it’s a lovely stop if you enjoy taking a peek behind the scenes of such a historic venue.

The promenade along the ramparts and a view of Sliema

On the north-western side of the peninsula, there’s a promenade running alongside the ramparts, offering views across the bay towards Sliema. It’s a lovely, peaceful stroll away from the main crowds; on the other side of the water, you can see a modern district with hotels and bars. Small boats also cross this bay, so you can pop over to Sliema from here in just a few minutes.

View of the Three Cities

From the south-east, particularly from the Upper Barrakka Gardens and Lower Barrakka Gardens, you can look across the Grand Harbour towards the Three Cities: Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. These are three old fortified towns opposite Valletta, and for me, the view of their ramparts and harbour is one of the most beautiful in the whole of Malta. You can get there by boat, and it’s well worth it – I’ve written about it in the ‘Trips’ section.

Where to go in Valletta for the view

Valletta is all about the views – it couldn’t be any other way. The peninsula is surrounded by water on all sides, and the city walls rise high above the harbour. Here are some places to go if you want to take in the views.

Upper Barrakka Gardens

Top marks from me. The best view of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities across the water. The harbour, the fortifications, the boats – everything lies right at your feet. Entry is free and it’s just a short walk from City Gate. Time your visit to coincide with the midday cannon shot from the Saluting Battery down below the garden.

Lower Barrakka Gardens

A smaller, quieter garden a little further on towards Fort St Elmo. From here, the view is mainly of the harbour entrance and the open sea. There are fewer people than in the upper garden, so if you’re looking for a view and some peace and quiet, head here.

The promenade along the ramparts at Sliema

On the north-western side of the peninsula, a promenade runs alongside the ramparts. Across the bay, you can see the modern town of Sliema with its hotels and bars. It’s a lovely walk away from the crowds on Republic Street. It’s at its most beautiful in the late afternoon, when the sun shines from behind onto the buildings opposite.

Roof bars and terraces for watching the sunset

Boutique hotels in the city centre usually have a rooftop terrace or bar, and the views from there are even better. A brilliant choice for watching the sunset with a drink in hand. Iniala Harbour House, for example, has a rooftop bar by the harbour, which you can visit even if you’re not staying there. When you’re in the city centre, it’s simply worth heading up there to take in the view of the Grand Harbour.

What to try in Valletta

Maltese cuisine is a blend of Mediterranean, Sicilian and British influences, but it also has a few specialities you won’t find anywhere else. The number one classic is pastizzi, crispy puff pastry parcels filled with either ricotta or pea purée. They’re greasy, easy to hold, and available on every street corner – ideal as a snack with a coffee. They cost just a few cents, so feel free to try both varieties. The second street food classic is ftira, a Maltese flatbread – or rather a sandwich made from bread with a crispy crust. It’s filled with tuna, olives, capers, sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil. It’s a hearty dish, easily enough for a lunch.

However, Malta’s number one speciality is fenkata, rabbit stewed in wine and garlic (stuffat tal-fenek). The meat is tender, falls off the bone, and the sauce is rich. Traditionally, it is eaten in two courses: first, pasta with the sauce from the stew, then the meat itself. Don’t miss this – it’s the dish around which family lunches here revolve. Of the seasonal fare, try lampuki, a fish caught mainly in autumn. It’s baked, grilled or made into a pie with onions and olives. I don’t eat much fish, so I see this more as a must-try, but it’s a local speciality and well worth a go.

For something sweet, try cannoli – crispy tubes filled with sweet ricotta, originally from Sicily but now found everywhere here. Another classic is the Maltese nougat known as qubbajt, a hard sweet made with almonds and nuts, which you’ll mainly see at festive times and in markets. To go with it, pop into a speciality café for a good coffee – I’ll mention specific places below.

Where to eat in Valletta

The easiest thing to do is head to Is-Suq tal-Belt on Merchant Street. It’s a food hall housed in the old market building, with loads of stalls all under one roof. From Maltese classics to pizza and seafood, right through to sweet treats. In my opinion, it’s a good choice if you’re out with a group and everyone wants something different. You can sit right in the middle and avoid having to argue about where to go.

There’s no point looking for anything special when it comes to pastizzi – you can get them in practically every pastizzeria on Republic Street and Merchant Street. You can grab them for a few cents straight off the counter, warm and greasy – perfect with a quick coffee on the go. That’s exactly how they’re eaten here. For a premium coffee and a more relaxed atmosphere, there are smaller speciality cafés in the city centre where you can enjoy a good coffee alongside something sweet.

Where to go on a day trip from Valletta

Malta is tiny, so you can get anywhere from anywhere in no time. From Valletta, you can easily go on day trips every day. A car is handy, but there are plenty of places you can reach by bus or boat directly from the city centre.

Three Cities

Across the Grand Harbour lie the Three Cities: Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. These are three old fortified towns, which are actually older than Valletta itself. In my view, they’re quieter and more authentic than Valletta, with fewer tourists and more of a sense of everyday life. Narrow streets, ramparts, old shipyards and a harbour full of boats. The best way to get here is by boat directly from Valletta, either on a traditional dgħajsa or a small ferry; the journey takes just a few minutes and is an experience in itself.

Mdina and Rabat

The old walled city of Mdina, situated inland, is Malta’s former capital. It is known as the ‘Silent City’ because there are hardly any cars inside the walls and it is very quiet. Narrow streets, honey-coloured stone, and views of the countryside from the ramparts. Just beyond the gates lies Rabat, home to the Catacombs of St Paul and a number of smaller churches. You can get here from Valletta by bus in about 40 minutes. It’s at its most beautiful in the early evening, when the crowds have left and Mdina is truly quiet.

Gozo

The sister island of Gozo is quieter and greener than Malta. People tend to visit for the day, taking the ferry from Ċirkewwa harbour in the north of the island. You can get there by bus from Valletta, and the crossing takes around 25 minutes. Gozo’s capital is Victoria, with its citadel, old salt pans by the coast and quieter beaches. If you’re looking for Malta without the crowds, this is the place for you.

Comino and the Blue Lagoon

Between Malta and Gozo lies the tiny islet of Comino, and next to it is the Blue Lagoon, a shallow bay with turquoise water. You get there by boat, and it’s mainly about swimming and the colour of the water, which really does look just like a photo. Be warned, though – in summer it’s absolutely packed, with hundreds of boats pouring in. If you want some peace and quiet, go early in the morning or outside the peak season.

Marsaxlokk

A fishing village in the south of the island, about 30 minutes by bus from Valletta. Marsaxlokk is famous for its harbour full of colourful luzzu boats with painted eyes on their bows. On Sundays, there’s a large fish market here that spills out along the entire promenade. There are a number of seafood restaurants around the harbour, and this is the perfect place to eat, as the fish is fresh straight from the sea. Come in the morning, especially on Sundays for the market.

When to go and practical information

Spring and autumn are best – say, April to June, and then September and October. It’s warm, the sea is good for swimming, and yet it’s not as sweltering as in summer. In July and August, Malta is sweltering and, on top of that, it’s packed – cruise ships disgorge crowds and the Blue Lagoon is unrecognisable. If you can, avoid the summer. In winter, it’s lovely for walks and sightseeing, but the sea is too cold for swimming and you should expect rain.

Maltese and English are both official languages, so you’ll be able to get by absolutely everywhere without any problems. English is very common here, dating back to the British era.

• Payment: the currency is the euro; you can pay by card almost everywhere, but make sure you have some small change for pastizzi and smaller stalls,
• Driving: In Malta, they drive on the left, so be careful when you hire a car or cross the road,
• Sockets: British three-pin, so make sure you pack an adaptor, otherwise you won’t be able to charge your devices.

Transport in Valletta and around the island

You walk around Valletta itself – there’s no other way. The centre is tiny and you can’t get a car in there anyway; the streets are narrow and many of them are uphill. Just leave your car in the car park outside the city walls and walk into the centre.

There’s a bus network across the island that’ll take you practically anywhere. The main bus station is just beyond City Gate, outside Valletta; buses run from here to all corners of the island. A two-hour ticket costs €2 in summer and €1.50 in winter, and can be bought from the driver. If you’re going to be travelling a lot, it’s worth getting a Tallinja weekly pass for €21, which offers unlimited travel.

You can take a boat from Valletta to Sliema and the Three Cities directly from the harbour; the journey takes just a few minutes and is both more pleasant and quicker than travelling there by bus. Ferries and cruise boats run to Gozo and Comino – I’ll cover this in the section on day trips.

Where is Valletta?

Valletta is the capital of Malta, an island nation in the Mediterranean Sea. It lies on the east coast of the main island, on a small peninsula jutting out between two natural harbours. To the south-east of the city centre lies the Grand Harbour, whilst to the north-west lies Marsamxett Harbour. Malta itself lies south of Sicily, which is about 90 kilometres away across the sea. The southern tip of Italy is the closest point of mainland Europe from here, whilst the African coast of Tunisia is roughly 290 kilometres to the west.

How to get to Valletta

Flights to Malta arrive at Malta International Airport (MLA). It’s just a short distance south of Valletta. There are plenty of direct connections in summer. Outside the peak season there tend to be fewer of them, so you’ll probably fly with a stopover, for example via an Italian hub. Flight prices vary a lot depending on the time of year. Expect to pay more in summer and during public holidays.

The airport is about 8 kilometres from Valletta, so it’s really close. The cheapest option is the bus. The X4 stops at the airport and takes about 30 minutes to reach the centre of Valletta. A ticket costs €2 in summer and €1.50 in winter, and you can buy it from the driver. If you’re arriving with luggage in the evening, or there are several of you, take a taxi or a transfer. Bolt works in Malta. Using the app you get to the centre comfortably for a few euros and don’t need to worry about cash.

More tours and experiences in Valletta