Naples isn’t exactly a city that grabs me at first sight. Noisy dirty streets with huge traffic, both on the roads and on the sidewalks. Goethe’s“see Naples and die” takes on a slightly different meaning here, as for the twentieth time I jump off a motorbike on the pavement, at a crosswalk or at a food stall. Seeing Naples and surviving would probably be more accurate. I’ve survived two visits to Naples, so you might too. If you give Naples a chance, you might be drawn to its unique atmosphere, which is just different from other Italian cities and has a charm all its own. You end up liking the chaos.
Highlights from Naples:
- authentic Neapolitan pizza is reason enough to go to Naples on its own (and costs perfectly normal prices even in the most famous places),
- near Naples there are 2 almost unmissable excursion destinations: the climb of the Vesuvius volcano and the historic Pompeii, it’s in the same direction, so it can be combined into a day trip,
- Spaccanapoli street is the best place to soak up the local atmosphere, every moment you
- Italy is known for its stand-up coffee culture, but in Naples it was somehow more intense and impossible not to do, macchiato a couple of times a day.
Tip: Book a day trip to Pompeii and Vesuvius, or to the Amalfi Coast to see Sorrento, Positano and Ravello.
Tickets and experiences in Naples
Cappella Sansevero and Pompeii are usually sold out for several days in advance during the season. Vesuvius has regulated entry with time slots. Better book in advance to avoid queues and disappointment.
- Ascent of Vesuvius – the climb is quite easy, about 30 minutes from the parking lot to the crater, but you need a ticket, preferably secured in advance.
- Pompeii – a ticket to some of the best preserved ancient ruins in the world.
- Cappella Sansevero – small space, only a few people let in at a time. Without a reservation, there’s little chance of getting in.
- National Archaeological Museum – ticket – queues are usually in the morning.
- Underground Naples (Napoli Sotterranea) – ticket – tours run in time slots and capacity is limited, in high season afternoon dates tend to sell out.
- Pompeii and Vesuvius – combined trip with transfer – if you want to do both in one day and with a transfer, this trip is ideal.
Where to stay in Naples
For me the best choice is Centro Storico, Naples is not that expensive and it makes sense. The historic centre is around Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali. You have everything within walking distance. Sights, pizzerias, cafes, streetfood windows. It’s noisy and chaotic, but that’s what Naples is.
A quieter alternative is Chiaia and the seaside promenade of Lungomare. Here there’s more space, views of Vesuvius and an elegant atmosphere. It’s still only a 15-minute walk to the centre. The Quartieri Spagnoli are authentic to the core. Narrow streets, laundry overhead, street life. It’s noisier and rawer, but for me it has a huge charm. The area around Napoli Centr ale station is cheaper, but the atmosphere is weaker. It’s more suited to a one-night pass than a base for exploring the city.
Tips for accommodation in Naples
- Grand Hotel Vesuvio – Iconic hotel on Lungomare overlooking the bay and Vesuvius. If you want elegance by the sea, this is the address.
- Maison Des Fleurs – fantastic central accommodation.
- B&B Napoli Ruck&Maul or Le Sciantose Relais – a cheaper and great option right in the centre of Naples.
What to see and experience in Naples
Naples is a city that pulsates with energy, culture and rich history. I’ll start with pizza, because hand on heart, it’s the main reason to visit Naples. True Neapolitan pizza with puffy edges comes from here and there is no shame in eating pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner here.
L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele
The pizzeria where Julia Roberts had her pizza in Eat Pray Love, we had to have pizza too. Not because Julia had it there, but because it was already a famous pizza place when she had it there. And really, the pizza was great. The place is very popular, so you’ll probably find a big line in front of it first. When we got there, there were about 15 people standing around that I thought we might give up. But we took a ticket to be in line before we decided and the numbers jumped pretty quickly, the wait was a quarter of an hour, the restaurant has a lot of seats.
We were given a table right by the oven, so the heat was warm on my back and I could still watch him put it in.
There are 4 pizzas – margherita, marinara, cosacca and marita (half marinara, half margherita). They are large, have beautifully thin dough with puffy and slightly burnt edges. The pizza here is really great, even the typical Neapolitan marinara, which is quite simple in ingredients (just tomatoes, oregano, garlic and olive oil) was great.
Tip: Learn how to make a real Neapolitan pizza at a workshop with an Italian chef.
Via dei Tribunali
For me, probably the nicest part of Naples in the historic centre is Via dei Tribunali, which leads from the Monumento and Dante Aligheri and the adjacent streets around Via Toledo from Galeria Umberto I to Via dei Tribunali.
It is one of the oldest streets in Naples with an authentic atmosphere of Neapolitan life. It passes through a medieval quarter and was originally part of the ancient Greek and Roman city plan.
Via dei Tribunali is also the unofficial kingdom of pizza. Some of the best pizzerias in Naples are here, making this street a must-stop for foodies, which is probably why I liked it so much.
You can stop by Gino Sorbillo, one of the most famous pizzerias in the city (it has other branches elsewhere in town), at Pizzeria Da Mateo, where they have a “fried pizza” pizza frita filled with various ingredients. Or at Pizzeria del Presidente, named after US President Bill Clinton, who used to have pizza here in the 1990s.
Small restaurants, bars, cafes everywhere. Just a huge amount of people and passing motorbikes and sometimes cars (I still don’t understand how).
What should not be missed here is the cuppio (cone). Paper cones full of goodies, fried. From seafood, fish and vegetables to cheese. There are several cupcake businesses, my favourite was Stiamo friggendo per te and their fried mozzarella balls.
Tip: Discover the best places with an Italian guide on a walk through Naples’ streetfood.
Galleria Umberto I.
Naples may have some famous castles, but Galleria Umberto I is definitely the best architectural monument for me. The passage has a high, glass roof and it looks really luxurious. What struck us was that there are no galleries or any more upscale shops (like Parisian) in a place this nice, but there’s Mecca and other such nonsense, which is really quite a shame.
Cappella Sansevero
For me, the absolute highlight of Naples. A small baroque chapel that you wouldn’t even enter from the outside because it doesn’t look like anything special. Inside, however, there is the Veiled Christ (Cristo velato) by Giuseppe Sanmartino from 1753. A marble sculpture that makes the veil look so real you’ll stand there with your mouth open. It really looks like fabric. It’s one of the most impressive pieces of sculpture you’ll see in Italy.
The chapel is tiny and only a limited number of people are allowed inside. Advance reservations are required. There’s not much point in going without it, it’ll probably sell out. You can’t take pictures inside.
Mergellina
Mergellina is the coastal part of Neoapolis, much less busy. There is a harbour and also one of the Naples cable cars (out of service at the time of our visit), which you can take up the hill. We took the metro here (Mergellina station) and a nice walk back along the coast, past Villa Comunale Napoli park and Mappatella beach. On the way, the view of Castel dell’Ovo comes closer.
Castel dell’Ovo and Castel Nuovo
The two medieval castles in Naples are located about 2 kilometres apart. Both on the coast, respectively Castel dell’Ovo is a fortress right in the sea (or let’s say on an islet).
Napoli Sotterranea
There’s a whole other city below Naples. A network of underground passages, cisterns and tunnels that the Greeks started digging in the 4th century BC. The Romans expanded them into an aqueduct. They served as air raid shelters during World War II.
Tours are guided and run in time slots. The entrance is from Piazza San Gaetano, directly on Via dei Tribunali. The corridors are really narrow in some places. If you have a problem with tight spaces, consider it, otherwise it’s a fascinating experience.
Certosa di San Martino
Kartouza on Vomero Hill. You can go up by cable car (Centrale or Montesanto station) plus a few minutes on foot. The monastery itself is beautiful. Church, cloister, collection of nativity scenes (Neapolitan tradition). But the main reason to come here is the view. Panoramic views of the whole of Naples, the bay, Vesuvius and the islands. For me, one of the best viewpoints in the city.
Metro station Toledo
Normally, I wouldn’t list a subway station as a landmark. But Toledo is an exception. It’s considered one of the most beautiful metro stations in the world. As you descend the escalators, the walls transition from earth tones of brown to the deep blue of the sea, with mosaics and LED lighting. It’s worth going here even if you’re not going anywhere. Just buy a metro ticket, go down, look, and come back up.
Peppers and hanging laundry in the streets of Naples
Naples is one of those Italian cities where the streets are full of hanging laundry, either under windows or across the street. I’m always amazed they don’t get caught.
Another thing often seen here are chili peppers, but they have no context in gastro (at least I haven’t found it). You’ll see them on doors, windows, balconies, and supposedly they ward off evil tongues.
Excursions from Naples
Naples itself is enough for a day, two at most. But there are several attractions to visit around Naples.
In particular, the historic lava-flooded city of Pompeii, the volcano of Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast. Or the islands of Ischia and Capri.
🧭 From Naples it is less than an hour and a half by train to Rome. What to see in Rome?
What to taste in Naples
If you’re not in Naples for long, you can’t go wrong eating authentic Neapolitan pizza from morning to night. I’m a fan of rich pizza with lots of ingredients and I don’t have margherita (San Marzano tomato sauce, mozzarella di bufala or fior di latte, fresh basil, olive oil) at home, but in Italy and especially in Naples it’s great, as is the even “poorer” marinara (tomatoes, oregano, garlic and olive oil).
A street food classic is the pizza fritta (fried pizza). A typical dessert is babà al rum, soaked in rum syrup. And for breakfast (or anytime) sfogliatella napoletana, a layered puff pastry filled with ricotta. In addition to the local specialties, of course, you’ll also sample the classics of Italian cuisine in Naples: pasta, risotto, gnocchi.
Where is Naples
Naples (Italian: Napoli) is in the Italian region of Campania, located by the sea on the west coast of Italy, on the Bay of Naples. It is about 225 kilometres (225 mi) southeast of Rome and only about 9 kilometres (6 mi) from the volcano Vesuvius. Just south of Naples are the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida.
How to get to Naples
The flight to Naples from Prague takes two hours and Ryanair flies here, so you can get tickets quite cheaply. There is an Alibus bus to the centre of Naples directly from the airport. It costs 5 euros and stops at Garibaldi, which is the square by Napoli Centrale train station. It’s like Prague’s Hlavac, really not a nice place.
It can also be reached by train from Rome, a journey of less than an hour and a half. If you want to see both cities, the most practical way is to fly into Rome, take the train, and fly out of Naples (or vice versa).
