Bologna, Italy: what to see and where to eat

Bologna is an Italian gastronomic paradise. One of the many gastronomic paradises in Italy, to be precise. I have visited Bologna many times, but always as a quick stop for lunch or dinner on my way to Tuscany. Such a mistake! It wasn’t until my last visit that I had the opportunity to stay for a few days. And let me tell you, I cursed myself a lot over the years for not realizing that Bologna was not just supposed to be on the way, but a destination. There’s a lot to see here, and more importantly, a lot to taste.

Where to stay in Bologna

Bologna is quite a popular tourist destination and accommodation is more expensive. Of course, the best place to stay is in the Centro Storico, the historic center of the city, preferably somewhere between Piazza Maggiore and Quadrilatero (the old market district, where you’ll gorge yourself on mortadella and fresh tortellini). From here you can easily walk to everything important.

If you want to do more travelling around from Bologna, it’s worth staying near Bologna Centrale station (ideally between the centre and the station). The station is about a kilometer from the center, so nothing that can’t be handled. However, there may not have been many interesting restaurants in that direction, so I preferred to go all the way to the center for food anyway.

Tickets and experiences in Bologna

Bologna is a foodie city and a lot of the experiences revolve around food. Tastings and cooking classes sell out fast in high season, so secure them in advance.

• Bologna: guided food tour – you’ll taste local specialities in the places where locals actually go. Groups tend to be small but fill up fast.
• Bologna: self-guided tasting tour – you get vouchers for selected places and walk it at your own pace. A nice option for those who don’t want a group tour.
• Bologna: city audio guide – a self-guided walk with recordings about the history and curiosities. Start it on your phone and go whenever you like.
• Pasta-making class with locals – you cook right in someone’s home. Capacity is a handful of people and in high season it sells out even a week ahead.

Things to see in Bologna

Pasta and desserts. I’m not kidding, when I think of Bologna, the food is always the first thing that comes to mind, but don’t worry, it will also get a mention. After all, you have to digest a bit between the first and second lunch anyway.

Markets in Bologna

I can’t help it, I have to start with the markets, because despite all the beautiful historical monuments in Bologna, the local gastronomy is the main thing here. Both markets have fresh produce as well as food stalls. The Mercato dell Erbe is larger and has a larger selection of fruits, vegetables and cheeses as well as more seating at the restaurants, a lot of locals come here to shop. Mercato di Mezzo is smaller, more modern and has small stalls and a few tables in between. It’s more geared towards tourists and it’s usually more crowded, but it’s still worth a visit.

I recommend trying some pasta you’ve never had before (which really isn’t hard here, because there are a lot of different colors and a lot of different fillings). I loved the pistachio tiramisu in a cup at Mercato di Mezzo.

Two Towers – Le due Torri

Torre degli Asinelli and Torre Garisenda are the main symbols of the city and its skyline. Both towers served as part of Bologna’s defence system and were a symbol of the rivalry between noble families in the Middle Ages.

Both towers are sloping, but each at a different inclination. Garisenda is significantly more inclined. It was originally intended to be taller, but was shortened to 48 metres due to unstable bedrock. Asinelli is less sloping, but 97 metres. Which, incidentally, is higher than the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa, but Asinelli doesn’t have nearly the same lean.

The Garisenda is not open to the public for security reasons, so you can only visit the Asinelli and take the 498 steps to the top. From here you have a magnificent view of Bologna and the surrounding area.

Piazza Maggiore

Bologna’s main square, Piazza Maggiore, has been the centre of all public events in the city since the Middle Ages. Be it historical events, markets, festivals or politics.

The square is surrounded by historic buildings and monuments such as the Basilica di San Petronio, Neptune’s Fountain and Palazzo d’Accursio Town Hall.

Basilica di San Petronio

San Petronio is the patron saint of Bologna. The large cathedral just off the main square is one of the largest in Italy. It is 132 metres long and 66 metres wide. The cathedral houses a unique astronomical calendar, which was designed and built in the 17th century and uses sunlight to determine various astronomical events.

Entrance to the cathedral itself is free.

Neptune’s Fountain

The Neptune Fountain was designed as a symbol of the power and wealth of Bologna. Neptune, the god of the sea, represents power and control, reflecting the ambitions of the city. The bronze statue of Neptune on a circular base is about 3 metres high, with statues of other figures and sea horses around it.

Archiginnasio

The Archiginnasio was founded in 1563 as the main building of the University of Bologna, one of the oldest universities in the world, with roots dating back to the 11th century. It was intended as a place to teach law, philosophy and theology.

Where to eat in Bologna

My humble guess is basically anywhere. Although I did say that maybe there weren’t many good restaurants in the area where I lived, I was talking about Bologna conditions. For Bologna, below average is still better than the average Italian restaurant elsewhere. I’ve even had great Italian food at the station restaurant. So I guess.

Anyway, I’ll start with a place I’ve been stopping at for years now on my way to Tuscany, although it may not be the best I’ve tasted in Bologna, but it’s a renowned place for tagliatelle al ragù and for me it’s such a nice tradition to always visit. The place hasn’t changed in the 15 or so years since I first visited and that’s what I love about it. It’s Osteria dell’Orsa. Ideally, try not to come here at lunch (and dinner) time, you’ll get a long line.

Another renowned establishment is Sfoglia Rina. You can have great pasta here and they have a counter where there are countless varieties of fresh pasta, as is the custom in Italy. This is also where I used to buy pasta to take away to cook in the evening.

Le Stanze is a small bistro with a bar. Drinks and food are great, but the main thing is the space. Le Stanze is in a former chapel and it’s just very different.

Where to go on a trip from Bologna

Bologna has brilliant conditions for lots of day or weekend trips as it’s in the centre of the region and has good train links around the area. The trains here are fast, so you can get to a lot of places in an hour. It’s a bit slower by car, but of course that’s not a problem either. My choice of trips around the area:

San Marino

San Marino is just over an hour away, but who would want to miss this little state inside Italy when it’s so close. San Marino is on a hill just outside of Rimini, and from the castle of Monte Titano (which, along with its sub castle, makes up practically the entire town, or rather, the entire country), you have a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside. There’s a nice atmosphere and quite a few restaurants and cafes.

Rimini

While we’re at it, Rimini is worth a look. More of a holiday destination than a city as such, and if you want to take a trip to the sea from Bologna, this is a good choice. The train here takes an hour and a quarter.

Parma

And now something for fellow foodies, because who could resist a visit to the city where Parmesan cheese and prosciutto di Parma were born. Perfect for a gourmet trip, but there are also sights like the Cattedrale di Parma and the Teatro Regio, one of Italy’s most famous opera houses.

Florence

The heart of Tuscany and one of Italy’s most important cities. It’s a 40-minute train ride from Bologna and I recommend getting there as early in the morning as possible, as there’s a lot to see here and you’ll definitely want to spend some time with a coffee, if not a Florentine steak.

In Florence there is the Duomo, the great church, the famous statue of David by Michelangelo, the Ponte Vecchio bridge or the Uffizi Gallery. From the Piazzale Michelangelo above Florence you have a beautiful view of the whole city.

Modena

The seat of Ferrari and the birthplace of balsamic vinegar. You can visit the Enzo Ferrari Museum, which is dedicated to the history of the carmaker. There is also the Duomo di Modena, one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Italy.

Where is Bologna

Bologna is in northern Italy, in the Emilia-Romagna region, about 100 km north of Florence.

How to get to Bologna

Bologna has its own airport, but direct flights tend to be pricey in high season. Sometimes it’s cheaper to fly into a nearby city and take the train. The trains here are fast. From Rome it takes just two and a quarter hours. The closest airports are Rimini, Florence (40 minutes by train), Milan, Venice and Pisa.

So my tip is to look for flights into another city and combine Bologna with something else. If you have more time, you could fly into Pisa, do Bologna and fly out of Venice.

From the airport to the city centre

From the airport, the Marconi Express runs into the city. The journey takes just 7 minutes. Bologna Centrale train station is just north of the centre, about a kilometre on foot. You can buy your ticket in advance online via the rogerapp.it app, or from a machine at the station. It costs 11 euros one way, or 20 return. There’s also a bus from the same spot, about 20 minutes.