Gibraltar has always held a certain indescribable appeal for me and in the end it really captivated me. Because it’s an independent country. Because it’s a little bit of England “in Spain”. Because there’s a unique troop of monkeys. Because of the famous Rock of Gibraltar. Because it’s a key point for controlling the Mediterranean. Because they have a slightly unconventional airstrip for planes. And because you can see Africa from here.
Tip: If you don’t want to complicate things by car or bus, book a tourist trip to Gibraltar from Málaga (they will also pick you up at several coastal locations along the way). If you want to experience Gibraltar with a dolphin-watching boat ride, I recommend taking a tour from Málaga with dolphins. You can also easily go to Gibraltar from Seville.
I had Gibraltar on my bucket list for a long time and it was the main destination on my roadtrip from Prague to the Iberian Peninsula (the kind of destination you reach and you’re only halfway there). They say it’s one of those places that when you visit, you have to go back. So I guess I can confirm, I’ve been here twice now.
- Where did Britain come from in the south of Spain?
- How to get to Gibraltar
- Entry into Gibraltar in 2024
- Gibraltar’s currency and prices
- Where to stay while visiting Gibraltar
- What to see in Gibraltar
- Gibraltar Rock – Top of the Rock
- Rock of Gibraltar cable car and Skywalk viewing platform
- Apes’ Den Viewpoint
- Gibraltar Channel and boat ride with dolphin watching
- Europa point and lighthouse
- View of Africa from Gibraltar
- Gibraltar Airport (GIB) and runway
- Monkeys – macaques
- Botanical Gardens – Alameda Gardens
- St. Michaels Cave
- Moorish gate
- The Great Siege Tunnels
- Beaches on Gibraltar
- What to taste in Gibraltar
- Things to see around Gibraltar
Gibraltar is located in the south of the Iberian Peninsula. Although you can already see Africa from here, it is not the southernmost point of continental Europe, which is Punta del Tarifa, a few kilometres further away. The only country Gibraltar borders is Spain, and the border is only 1.2 km long. Gibraltar itself is only 6.5 km² in size, 1.2 km wide and less than 6 km long. The population is about 30,000. On Gibraltar there is a large limestone rock, the Rock of Gibraltar (or The Rock), at its highest point 426 metres.
Where did Britain come from in the south of Spain?
Gibraltar was conquered for England in 1704 by Admiral George Rook, and has been officially part of Britain since 1713, by the Treaty of Utrecht. In a referendum in 2002, the people of Gibraltar voted 99% to remain under Britain. With an equally strong vote, they then opposed Brexit in 2017, but that didn’t work and both Britain and Gibraltar left the EU.
The flag of Gibraltar, which has been in use since 1982, is the only one of the British Overseas Territories that does not contain the British flag. It is two-thirds white with red at the bottom. In the white part is a red castle from which hangs a key. This symbolises Gibraltar as the gateway to the Mediterranean. The Gibraltar naval flag or the flag of the Governor of Gibraltar already contain the British flag, the symbol of the castle with the key is always there.
If you find yourself in Gibraltar on Gibraltar National Day, which is September 10, you may see it hanging from the windows of houses countless times. Otherwise, it can be seen at The Convent, the Governor’s residence.
How to get to Gibraltar
Over 10 million tourists travel to Gibraltar each year, the vast majority by land (by car or on foot), less than 300,000 by air and a few hundred by boat. There are only direct flights to Gibraltar from the UK (London, Manchester, Bristol) and Morocco (Tangier). The fact that there are no flights to Gibraltar from Madrid and neighbouring Spain in general may have a little to do with the Spaniards’ resentment that Gibraltar is not theirs. And, of course, the limited air traffic possibilities in such a small area.
Probably the best way to get to Gibraltar is by air to Málaga and from there by car (less than 2 hours). I drove from nearby Castellar de la Frontera the first time on my roadtrip through Spain, and the second time just from Málaga. Gibraltar is tiny, so one day is plenty.
Tip: If you don’t plan on renting a car, take a group day trip from Málaga to Gibraltar. The bus leaves from Málaga and will also pick you up on the Costa del Sol along the way. You can do the same for Gibraltar with a tour from Seville.
By bus from Málaga to Gibraltar
Buses also run here from Málaga, terminating in La Línea de la Concepción, a Spanish town just over the border from Gibraltar, a few minutes’ walk away.
- Direct service is provided by Avanza and the L-610 line.
- If you are not directly in Malaga, there are also services that go via Marbella or Fuengirola.
- In Málaga you can get on it at the main bus station (Estación de Autobuses de Málaga) or at the airport.
- Get off at the Estación La Línea terminus and either walk or take line 5.
The nearest train goes to Algecíras (from there you can take a bus to La Línea). If you want to stay overnight, it’s quite expensive in Gibraltar, probably better across the border in Spain.
Entry into Gibraltar in 2024
Crossing the border is a wait for a while, there are a lot of cars driving around, plus you may be delayed waiting for your plane to arrive or depart. It’s not in Schengen or the EU so you need to show your passport (we just waved them out of the window) or UK National Identity Card, no visa needed for Gibraltar for EU citizens.
By the way, you don’t drive on the left like in the UK, but normally on the right, like here and in Spain.
There are a few car parks near the centre of Gibraltar, but there are also a lot of tourists, so parking took some time, but it was doable (June, July). You can also park in the car park just over the border, but you’ll probably want to drive all the way around Gibraltar to see Europa point. The rest of it – downtown and the rock – is totally fine without a car. Alternatively, there are regular buses, but I haven’t tried.
Gibraltar’s currency and prices
Gibraltar has its own currency, the Gibraltar Pound. If you can’t pay by card, they normally take euros everywhere (at worst, they’ll give you back in pounds). But if you get the chance, the Gibraltar pound is a nice and unique souvenir.
Prices here are more English than Spanish, but nothing terrible. If you really need local cash, there are plenty of ATMs in town. Plus, if you use a Revolut card for travel like most people do, which is British, you get to withdraw completely free.
There is no VAT in Gibraltar, so while a lot of things aren’t cheap at all, some are a lot cheaper than in Spain. Cigarettes, for example.
Where to stay while visiting Gibraltar
Directly in Gibraltar, accommodation is the most expensive, but if you want to spend more than a day, this is obviously the best option. It’s cheaper in the neighbouring Spanish town of La Línea de la Concepción. Most people head to Gibraltar from Málaga, as this is where there’s the biggest range of accommodation and it tends to be cheaper too. From Málaga to Gibraltar is less than 2 hours by car or 3 hours by bus.
Gibraltar
- Rock Hotel – a short walk from the cable car with sea view and parking.
- The Elliot hotel – right in the centre of town, with swimming pool, gym, own restaurant and parking.
- Botel Jasmin Coral Bay – unconventional accommodation in a botel right on the water, on the initial edge of the centre of Gibraltar, a short walk from the runway (don’t worry, nothing much lands here at night).
La Línea de la Concepción
- NH Campo de Gibraltar – good cheaper solution with parking, restaurant or if you are going with your dog. It’s 16 km from Gibraltar, but even if you’re not driving, there’s a bus stop a short walk away, the M-120, which stops just before the border.
Málaga
- Malaga City Suites – nice accommodation in the centre of Málaga.
- Pirates Room – nice apartment by the port of Málaga. Fully equipped, with kitchenette.
What to see in Gibraltar
It’s definitely nice to see the centre, which is more or less one street full of tourists (Main street) and empty side streets. And, of course, have a proper English breakfast.
Main Street runs from the Gibraltar Governor’s Mansion, The Convent, to the main square, Casemates Square, and is mainly lined with shops and restaurants. Every Saturday, Casemates Square is the start of Ceremony Key, a march of soldiers in uniform who symbolically open the gates of the city.
Throughout the city you’ll see classic English phone booths, trash cans or mailboxes.
Gibraltar Rock – Top of the Rock
The limestone Top of the Rock offers many beautiful views and is home to macaques. You can also walk up to the top, it’s only about 3 km, but it’s quite a climb and if you go in season it will be quite hot. A more comfortable option is the cable car.
But it’s definitely better to walk down, there are several nice, different views, even the runway is better seen on the way than from the top. Otherwise, there is no bus up, nor is it possible to drive your own car. The only other option is a tourist minibus with clearly defined stops for £30.
Rock of Gibraltar cable car and Skywalk viewing platform
The second option to get up is by cable car. This costs £12 and runs every 10 minutes and is a few metres from the centre. However, a cable car ticket is not a ticket to the national park (I think that costs another £5), caves and tunnels. The weather can be a problem, if it’s too windy the cable car doesn’t run.
On the Rock of Gibraltar, where the cable car arrives, there is a steel Skywalk viewing platform at the highest point, which gives a great view of the surrounding area, all along the west side of Gibraltar.
Apes’ Den Viewpoint
Located lower on the Rock of Gibraltar than the Skywalk, the lookout is a favourite spot to see Gibraltar’s monkeys in their natural habitat.
Gibraltar Channel and boat ride with dolphin watching
The famous Strait of Gibraltar is only 14 kilometres wide at its narrowest point between Spain and Morocco. Occasionally, there are swimming challenges between the two continents. There is a rich marine life here, from Gibraltar you can go on a cruise to see dolphins, of which there are 3 species and the chances of seeing them are really great. In addition, whales live here and the Strait of Gibraltar is also an important migration corridor for many species of birds that fly between Europe and Africa. Spring or autumn is the best time to see them.
Europa point and lighthouse
Europa point is a little bit outside the town (there is a big parking lot). The Europa road leads here and there is a lighthouse dating from 1841 and the Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim mosque, which opened in 1997, cost £5 million and is the southernmost mosque in continental Europe (and one of the largest). Incidentally, the mosque is visible at night from Tangier (in Africa).
On the other side of the promontory there are only a few hotels and nice views of the rock from below.
View of Africa from Gibraltar
The best view of Africa is from Europa Point, the southernmost tip of Gibraltar.
In reality, however, you probably see the city of Ceuta, which is in Africa but belongs not to Morocco but to Spain.
Gibraltar Airport (GIB) and runway
There isn’t much room on Gibraltar, so there is a runway across the only road leading to Gibraltar. At the moment a plane lands or departs this road must be closed to traffic, both pedestrians and cars of course. Traffic stops are controlled only by traffic lights and a policeman on each side. When I think of how guarded airports normally are, and how impossible it would be to get onto the runway at Prague airport, for example, it is almost laughable.
I admit that it was such an experience for me that when we managed to hit the departure of the plane as we were waiting at the traffic light, I got out of the car and ran to the traffic light to check it out. And then I also enjoyed crossing the runway, I hopped back in the car after it. There are about 5 to 8 flights (5 arrivals, 5 departures) a day, so the chances of seeing a plane landing or departing are pretty good.
Monkeys – macaques
Gibraltar has the only wild colony of monkeys in Europe. They are the tailless Macaca Sylvanus. You’ll find them up on the cliffs.
Popular legend holds that as long as there are macaques in Gibraltar, Gibraltar will remain British. And that legend is taken very seriously here. The monkeys are cherished, with locals bringing them leftovers from restaurants and homes every day. In 1942, during the Second World War, when the monkeys were almost on the verge of extinction (the last 7), Winston Churchill immediately had 5 females imported from Morocco, and later issued an order that the number of macaques must be immediately increased to at least 24 (from their original home, in the forests of Morocco and Algeria). This has been done, and today Gibraltar is inhabited by about three hundred monkeys. The macaque has also been depicted on the fivepence since 1988 (while the British fivepence features Queen Elizabeth), and since 2004 on the penny.
The monkeys, daily preyed upon by tourists, are actually on a diet and under supervision. They shouldn’t be fed, even under a £500 fine. However, the monkeys don’t really wait to be offered food, they just take it – either from your hand or from your backpack. Unlike monkeys in Asia, for example, you don’t have to worry too much about glasses, they really are after food and cram themselves into cars. They’re peaceful and cuddly, but they can also make a pretty snotty face, probably to indicate that you shouldn’t even think about getting your food back.
Botanical Gardens – Alameda Gardens
At the foot of the Rock of Gibraltar, a short walk from the bottom cable car stop, is the botanical garden. It is home to many exotic plants, palms and cacti. There are ponds and fountains, and several statues, including that of the Duke of Wellington. Admission is free.
St. Michaels Cave
Natural limestone caves at the foot of the Rock of Gibraltar full of stalactites and stalagmites. It has several levels and has served as a shelter and sanctuary since ancient times. The rooms are colourfully lit and I have to say I wasn’t that impressed.
Moorish gate
The gate at the northern foot of the Rock of Gibraltar was built by the Moors in the 8th century and served as the main entrance to the walled city.
The Great Siege Tunnels
The passages carved into the Rock of Gibraltar during the Great Siege in the 18th century. They gave British soldiers unobserved movement and a good view. Today, the tunnels are open to tourists.
Beaches on Gibraltar
Gibraltar is surrounded by the sea and therefore has several beaches. From the beaches you have the chance to see Africa or watch planes landing, depending on the location. On some of them you will be visited by monkeys (watch out for snacks).
- Sandy bay – a small beach that has been widened with sand imported from the Sahara.
- Eastern beach – Gibraltar’s largest and most popular sandy beach on the eastern side.
- Western beach – quieter beach, popular with locals, closest to the centre, walkable.
- Little bay – the smallest beach, surrounded by rocks.
- Camp bay – artificial with concrete platforms, there are pools filled with seawater.
- Catalan bay – a fishing bay full of boats and restaurants where you can eat seafood.
What to taste in Gibraltar
When travelling through Spain, which eats breakfast rather small, a proper English breakfast is of course offered. In Gibraltar, you’ll logically get both English specialities like fish & chips or Cornish pasty (stuffed pockets of pastry, a bit like empanadas) and Spanish cuisine like paella or tapas. You can drink British beer and ale as well as Spanish sangria.
But the proximity to Africa is also linked to the Moroccan influence on the cuisine, so you can also have tagine, a spicy stew with vegetables in a clay pot, or couscous.
A downright local Gibraltar speciality is calentina, a kind of chickpea flour tortilla. A family Gibraltar dish is rosto, a mixture of pasta, mushrooms, meat, tomatoes and cheese. Similar to the calentina, another small snack is panissa, which is also made from chickpea flour, but it comes in a small, fritter-shaped dish. Rolitos are baked or fried rolls of meat with ham, bacon, egg, olives and sometimes cheese. On Easter Monday in Gibraltar, bollo de hornasso bread is baked, which is sweet, smells of aniseed, and contains fruit and nuts.
Things to see around Gibraltar
Gibraltar is located in Spanish Andalusia, which offers a lot to see, not far from the cities of Cadiz, Jerez de la Frontera or Ronda.
Close to Gibraltar is Tarifa, which is a renowned surfing town in the area with beautiful beaches. In addition, there is Punta del Tarifa, the southernmost point of mainland Europe. From Tarifa you can also take a boat to Morocco, specifically to the city of Tangier.