It is said that some of the most beautiful Christmas markets within driving distance of Prague are in Nuremberg. I believed it and went to Nuremberg during Advent. My research hasn’t been extensive enough to compare all the markets yet, but I can definitely confirm that they are beautiful and fill you with Christmas spirit quickly. It’s only 300 kilometers from Prague, so less than 4 hours by car, a bit longer by bus or train.
To visit German Advent markets you basically only need to know 3 German words: glühwein – mulled wine, entschuldigen – sorry (for pushing you in the huge crowd), danke – thank you.
Tip: Book tickets in advance for sights and tours in Nuremberg.
Where to stay at Christmas in Nuremberg
The best accommodation in the centre is in Altstadt, ideally around the Hauptmarkt or near the Lorenzkirche station. Everything is within walking distance there – sights, cafes, restaurants and markets. Good hotels include Hotel Five (modern, with a view of the castle) or Sorat Hotel Saxx right on the square. Prices are higher and it’s a good idea to book in advance, especially at Christmas or during fairs.
For a quieter and cheaper stay, Gostenhof is a good choice – a district with an alternative atmosphere, bars, bistros and vintage clothing shops, the centre is a few minutes away by metro. St. Johannis with its riverside cafes or Südstadt, where it’s easy to find an apartment via Airbnb, are also fine. If you have a car, you can sleep on the outskirts of the city, public transport is reliable and the centre is quick.
Nuremberg’s main Christmas market
Christkindlesmarkt
Nuremberg’s main market, the Christkindlesmarkt, is the largest Christmas market in Central Europe. It is located on Nuremberg’s main square , Hauptmarkt, which also houses the Frauenkirche and the Schöner Brunnen fountain. The dozens of stalls here are covered with a red and white stripe, which looks really beautiful in the overall view. The square is about a 15-minute walk from the main train station (Hauptbahnhof), and the nearest metro station is Lorenzkirche a short walk away.
There are several ways to view the market from above. The easiest is when you come to the market, with the church on the right in front of you and the whole market on the left, the Alex Nürnberg restaurant with its terrace is in that corner. Just go up the stairs and you have the square in the palm of your hand. You don’t even enter the restaurant, and the staff doesn’t fight the fact that so many people go there for the view and not the restaurant. But of course you can have something on the terrace there too.
The other option is just across the street (at the same corner of the square on your right, the church in front of you) is the Buonissimo ice cream parlour. This is not an ice cream parlour during winter, but a brewery. You can have your brew here on the first floor, where there is also a walk out to the gallery with seats where you can sit in peace, sip your brew and watch the hustle and bustle of the square.
The Frauenkirche also has a view of the square, and admission is free, but there is quite a queue on Advent weekends. If you’re there at noon, it’s better to stand outside, as there’s a daily astronomical clock.
Markt der Partnerstadt – International Christmas Market
Just behind the main market square, towards the castle, is the much smaller “twin city” market on Rathausplatz (town hall square), where stalls focus on products (sometimes things, sometimes food) from different parts of the world, one stall, one foreign city. From Italy, to Macedonia, to Sri Lanka.
Kinder Christkindlesmarkt – children’s Christmas market
Not far from the main market there is also a children’s market, which is mainly focused on entertainment for children. In addition to various carousels, there is also a children’s punch available.
Weihnachtsmarkt Fürth – Christmas market in Fürth
Fürth is a Bavarian city west of Nuremberg and also has its own markets. A day visit to Nuremberg might be a bit of a hassle, but if you’re staying all weekend, I recommend visiting the markets in Fürth as well. It’s not far at all, as the two cities are connected by the local metro, the journey (Lorenzkirche – Fürth) only takes 16 minutes, and the market is a few minutes from the stop.
I mention him because I found it interesting that he was a little different again. It’s more artisanal, it looks a bit medieval and people are warming themselves by the fire. It’s much smaller than Nuremberg and there’s a much smaller crowd. There’s a little train for the kids.
What to taste at Christmas in Nuremberg
Definitely Nürnberger Lebkuchen – local gingerbread with nuts, almonds and orange zest, often without flour. They’re sold everywhere at markets, the best are usually from Schmidt or Fraunholz. Have a Glühwein, a mulled wine with spices, either classic red or white.
For hot food, the Nürnberger Rostbratwurst – small sausages (usually three pieces in a bun, “Drei im Weggla”) – is a must, along with mustard or sauerkraut. Next, try the Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes with apple puree), Gebrannte Mandeln (roasted almonds in caramel) and a hot punch called Feuerzangenbowle, which packs a punch.
Of the food, the 3 im weckla – 3 legs of Nuremberg grilled sausage in a bun, just like that or with mustard or cabbage – is definitely worth a look. In the sausage world, the half-metre-long Frankfurter sausage in a baguette is definitely not to be overlooked. From the sweet side, the traditional Fränkische Küchle, a kind of doughnut, either plain or filled with sugar. And, of course, pretzels. With butter. The ubiquitous mulled wine and egg punch.
Gifts and souvenirs from Nuremberg
At the markets you can find all sorts of things: Christmas decorations, gingerbread houses, hats and gloves, toys, cookie cutters, jewellery, a wooden Nutcracker, elves, those glass balls that turn and snow.