Split is the second largest city in Croatia, but I passed it by for a long time. Eventually I was drawn to its harbour, taking the ferry to Italy and a catamaran to the surrounding islands. Split is a great starting point for travelling around the islands of Dalmatia, but also just for cruises to Italy on the opposite coast. Because of this it is a very touristy city and it shows in the prices, but also in the level of gastronomy, there are a lot of great modern restaurants. But Split is also a historic city, it has beautiful architecture and important monuments. I find it also a good base for digital nomadism.
In a nutshell:
- Diocletian’s Palace is not just a museum. It’s a lively neighbourhood where people live, eat and drink wine.
- It is worth going to Marjan Hill in the morning before the heat starts. The views of the town and islands are worth the few hundred steps.
- Riva is the heart of Split. Coffee costs more here than elsewhere, but you sit right by the sea overlooking the harbour.
- From the main harbour you can reach Hvar, Brac, Vis or Solta by ferry or catamaran in a few dozen minutes.
- Split is a great base for trips around the central Adriatic. The islands of Trogir, Krka and Omis are a short drive away.
- Croatian cuisine in Dalmatia is very much about grilled meat, fresh seafood, olive oil and simple side dishes like blitva with potatoes.
Tickets, tours and experiences in Split
Split is the starting point for excursions to the islands and inland. Boat tours and Plitvice tend to sell out quickly in high season, and rafting has limited capacity.
- Diocletian’s Palace Tour – Groups are small and fill up quickly in high season.
- Krka Waterfalls – day trip to Skardin and famous national park.
- Trip to Plitvice Lakes – Tickets to the park are for a specific time and sell out in high season. This trip includes tickets and transportation.
- Blue Cave, Hvar and 5 islands – full day cruise – Entry to the Blue Cave is on a time slot basis and capacity is limited. You may not get in without a reservation.
- Rafting on the Cetina River – Including transfer from Split. In summer it is usually sold out several days in advance.
Where to stay in Split
Split is not a big city and you can walk around the centre in a few minutes. It is best to live in or near the historic centre. The ideal zone is around Diocletian’s Palace and the Riva harbour. You’re steps to everything important, sit down for a drink in the evening overlooking the sea and wake up in the morning to stone streets that are still empty.
If you want to be away from the hustle and bustle, check out the Manuš or Veli Varoš district just behind the palace. Both are within a five-minute walk of the centre, but considerably quieter. Bačvice beach is about ten minutes down the Riva from the centre. Accommodation in Split is not exactly cheap, especially in high season. If you’re going in the summer, book in advance.
Tips for accommodation in Split
- Hotel Peristil – Right in Diocletian’s Palace, literally on Peristil. You won’t find a better location in Split.
- Hotel Marmont Heritage – Design boutique hotel a few steps from the palace. Nice rooms, nice roof terrace.
- Cornaro Hotel – A modern hotel next to the National Theatre with a spa and rooftop bar. Good value for money for its category.
What to see in Split
With a bit of luck, you will have the opportunity to experience the atmosphere of ancient Rome and meet one of the parades of “Roman soldiers and gladiators” in period costumes that are part of cultural and historical reenactments.
Diocletian’s Palace
This palace was built by the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the 3rd and 4th century as his retirement residence. Interestingly, he was one of the few Roman emperors who actually lived to see his retirement. The layout of the palace is reminiscent of a Roman military camp and the Golden Gate, the main entrance to the palace is one of the main entrances to the historic city centre today.
Book your Diocletian’s Palace ticket online — timed entry slots fill up fast in summer and skip the cashier queue.
One of the big attractions here is the Vestibule, a circular open passage in Diocletian’s Palace. It was originally intended as an imposing entrance hall near the main entrance to the imperial chambers. You can climb the stairs up to the open dome (a hole in the ceiling) for €1 and get a view of the cathedral and the city. From below you can see the sky again.
Cultural events are held in the central square of Peristyle. There is also a system of underground corridors and rooms, the Podrum, which were once used as cellars and warehouses. Today they are open to the public and are used for markets and exhibitions.
Near the northern entrance to Diocletian’s Palace stands a statue of Bishop Gregory of Ninsk (Grgur Ninskog). His big toe is stroked by tourists here to make all their wishes come true and have a happy life.
Cathedral of St. Domnius
Originally the mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian, later rebuilt and expanded into the present cathedral. The most important part of the cathedral is the bell tower, which is open to the public and offers a beautiful view of the city and its surroundings.
Riva Promenade
A wide promenade runs along the coastline on one side, flanked by a wing of Diocletian’s Palace on the other. This part of the city is alive from morning to night, with restaurants, bars and cafes galore. Gastronomically, I wasn’t impressed by anything here, it’s rather touristy. But there are also rooftop bars that have a nice view of the city and the overpriced drink is worth it.
Marjan Park
Marjan Park is often referred to as the “lungs of Split”. It is a huge forest park on the Marjan peninsula. The park has a number of paths, chapels and old churches, viewpoints and resting places. One of the main attractions of the park is the Vidilica viewpoint, which offers a panoramic view of Split and the surrounding islands.
It’s a bit of a hike up to the viewpoint, but it’s worth it, the view is spectacular.
Where to go on a trip from Split
Split has a large harbour with plenty of boats and ferries. You can find cruises, island hopping with trips to 3 islands per day. However, if you don’t want to see as much as possible in the shortest time and choose cruises, it’s better to choose one island and take a regular line to it.
There are a lot of islands around. For example, Solta, where there is an old shipwreck underwater, Brac or Vis. For me the nicest is Hvar and on it the town of Hvar and Stari Grad (each with its own harbour) and then a bit more distant Korcula.
Hvar
Hvar is considered one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic, and the town of Hvar is known for its impressive architecture. The dominant feature of the town is the Hvar Fortress Španjola, which offers a view of the town and the surrounding islands. St. Stephen’s Cathedral has richly decorated interiors and a large bell. Hvar Square is one of the largest and most beautiful in Dalmatia. The town is full of preserved Renaissance and Baroque palaces, testifying to its rich past.
The island of Hvar is also known for its lavender fields, which are in full bloom during June and July, a joy to behold.
Old Town
One of the oldest cities in Europe. It is a small town on the northern side of the island (closer to mainland Croatia). The historic centre is full of narrow stone streets with ancient houses. There is a fortress and the Tvrdalj castle, with a pond and gardens. It’s a much quieter, less-visited place, but offers an authentic Croatian experience.
Korcula
Korcula is one of the greenest islands in the Adriatic Sea, located in Southern Dalmatia and is the supposed birthplace of the Venetian merchant and traveller Marco Polo. The imposing walls can easily rival those of Dubrovnik. The island offers beautiful beaches and quiet bays with clear and transparent water, ideal for snorkelling.
Korčula is also famous for the traditional sword dance Moreska, which can be seen on festive occasions and celebrations.
Trogir
Trogir is not an island, it’s a town on the coast, so you can get here both by sea and by land (about half an hour by car along the coast). It’s an old Unesco-listed town with preserved medieval stone architecture and picturesque streets. It is nicknamed“the city within a city“. The most important building here is the 13th-century Cathedral of St. Lawrence. The old Kamerlengo Fortress is the dominant feature of the town, offering a beautiful view of the town and the coast.
Mostar
If you get bored of Dalmatia, you can head across the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina, to the town of Mostar. It’s just over 2 hours by car. Mostar is famous for its bridge that connects the two banks of the Neretva River, which was destroyed during the war but later rebuilt and is now on the Unesco list. In addition, the bridge is also famous for its traditional jumps into the water. In addition, you can visit traditional markets in the town selling jewellery, ceramics and fabrics.
What to taste in Split
In Split you can taste a wide range of traditional Dalmatian and Croatian specialities. Due to its coastal location, there is plenty of fish and seafood. A typical Dalmatian dish is pašticada, slow-cooked beef in sauce, served with gnocchi. Brudet is a fish stew, often with polenta. Soparnik is a Dalmatian vegetable pie filled with vegetables (chard), onions and garlic, baked over charcoal. The traditional Dalmatian sweet pastry is cukarini, just made with lemon zest-flavoured dough, often in the shape of rings or rolls.
But Split offers not only traditional local gastronomy, but also modern world cuisine. I must admit that after a month of Balkan cuisine, I preferred modern gastronomy here.
Where to eat in Split
The business that struck me when I walked by is Bokeria Kitchen & Wine. It’s got a beautiful interior, fine local wines, cocktails and modern tapas. I had these right at the bar, I love places like that. I also took a chance on the restaurant Bepa! right on Narodni Trg Square in the historic centre, with nice garden seating and good food.
At Uje Restaurant they do traditional dishes, I had the pashtitada. And finally, I visited the cocktail bar Noor Fine Spirits & Cocktails.
A very traditional Balkan-style restaurant, more like a streetfood barbecue, is Kantun Paulina. I popped into D16 Coffee for a coffee, and it was a good place to work. I also spent some time on the boardwalk at Roof 68, I don’t know the food but the setting and view were very nice.
Where is Split
Split is located in central Dalmatia on the Croatian Adriatic coast. It is the second largest city in Croatia. The city sits on a peninsula between the Mosor Mountains to the east and the Marjan Peninsula to the west. Thanks to this location, Split has the sea practically on three sides and the mountains at its back.
How to get to Split
Split Airport (SPU) is located in Kastel, about 25 km from the centre. In high season there are direct flights from many cities. In low season mostly with a change in Zagreb or via a European hub.
How to get from the airport to the city centre
The cheapest option is shuttle bus No. 37 (Pleso Prijevoz). It runs between the airport and the bus station at the port. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs around €5. The buses are connected to the arrivals, and in high season they tend to be full.
Uber comes out to €35-40. The ride takes 20-30 minutes depending on traffic.
