Of all the Cambodian cities and towns I visited, Siem Reap was the most interesting (Angkor Wat included, of course). Firstly, the proximity to Angkor offers plenty of opportunities for excursions and secondly, probably due to the influx of tourists, the city is well equipped to spend more than a few days here – in my terms, that means there are nice cafes, restaurants and places to do and it’s easy to move between them. In this case, both by tuk tuk and on foot. But it’s probably not quite “the real Cambodia”.
Tip: If you want to go to Angkor Wat with a guide, book in advance for Angkor Wat at sunrise, for fans of local cuisine there is a Khmer cooking class with a visit to the market.
Where to stay in Siem Reap
The centre around Pub Street is ideal if you want to be right in the heart of the action. There are plenty of restaurants, shops and bars. And a bit noisy. The quieter area is Wat Bo Road, it’s across the river and in the more southern part it’s also close to the centre.
If you’re here mainly for Angkor Wat, it makes sense to stay closer on the road towards Angkor Wat, at Preah Sihanouk. Otherwise, though, tuk tuks around town cost a few crowns, especially if you share them with more people, so location isn’t that crucial.
Tips for accommodation in Siem Reap
- Shintana Saya Residence – boutique hotel with swimming pool and breakfast included,
- Treeline Urban Resort – a design hotel in the city centre with river views,
- The Nature – a quiet resort surrounded by greenery, perfect for relaxing.
Tickets and experiences in Siem Reap
The Angkor temples have limited capacity at sunrise, and a tuk-tuk with a guide needs to be arranged in advance, especially in high season.
- Tonle Sap – floating villages – A trip including transfer from Siem Reap. On the spot it’s hard to negotiate a fair price for a boat.
- Angkor Wat – two-day tour with sunrise and sunset – The two-day option covers both circuits and the golden hours. The guide also knows when to visit which temple.
Things to see and do in Siem Reap
Siem Reap is, for a Southeast Asian city, pretty friendly to walk around. There aren’t many potholes in the sidewalks, it’s pretty clean, and the centre is compact. The Steung Siem Reap flows through the city.
Angkor Wat and the temples of Angkor
Angkor Wat is just outside of the city, but since most people come here just for it, I’ll consider it the same.
Book your Angkor temples pass online — paper tickets sell out at the counter and the queue eats your sunrise.
Check out detailed guide to the temples of Angkor.
Angkor is undoubtedly the most famous and most visited monument in Cambodia. The majestic temple complex is one of the largest religious monuments in the world, is considered the pinnacle of Khmer architecture and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and has sought to be listed as one of the 7 Wonders of the World.
Angkor Wat is the closest of the temples, about 5 kilometres outside the city. It is a popular sunrise destination, with the temple’s silhouette reflected in one of the small lakes in front of it standing out nicely. You can climb to the central Bakan Tower, from where there are beautiful views of both the temple itself and the surrounding area.
Another popular destination is Angkor Thom, the original Khmer capital. At its centre is Bayon, a temple with many faces made of stone. The Baphuon Temple is also worth a visit here, which you can also climb up to and has a great view.
A bit of a different story is Ta Prohm, known from the movie Tomb Raider, which is interesting because it is overgrown with massive tree roots.
Wat Preah Prom Rath
In Siem Reap there are many modern Buddhist temples, living pagodas where monks live. I guess you won’t feel the need to see them all (it’s pretty similar then), but at least one might be worth a visit. Wat Preah Prom Rath is right in the centre by the river.
One of the oldest and most beautiful Buddhist temples in Siem Reap, it is known for its colourful murals and peaceful atmosphere. I met literally no one there except two monks.
Phsar Chas (Old Market)
The old market, Phsar Chas, is the heart of local life in Siem Reap. Stalls are filled with fresh fruit, vegetables, spices and souvenirs. A great place to soak up the atmosphere of everyday life in Cambodia.
Pub Street
Pub Street is the centre of Siem Reap’s nightlife. The lively (and it has to be said, very touristy) street is full of restaurants, bars and clubs where you can sample local and international cuisine, listen to live (and loud) music and dance until dawn.
Where to go on a trip around Siem Reap
Siem Reap is not only the gateway to the temples of Angkor, but there are also a few other places to go for a hike and to see nature. In a group you can use a car and driver for the whole day, individually either a motorbike, but for longer trips you’d probably prefer an organised tour anyway.
Banteay Srei
The pink temple of Banteay Srei is one of the most beautiful and detailed temples in Cambodia. It is about 37 km northeast of the main Angkor complex. The ticket you pay for Angkor Wat is valid here too (but in case you want to visit it, it’s better to get a multi-day one then).
The detailed engravings are carved into the pink sandstone, giving it a unique look and nickname. Banteay Srei is smaller than other temples in the area, but it is the artistry that makes it stand out. The reliefs depict Hindu mythological scenes and are considered some of the finest examples of Khmer art.
Lake Tonlé Sap and floating village
The Tonlé Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, but its size changes with the seasons. In the rainy season, the area multiplies up to fivefold and connects with the Mekong River (which rises in Tibet, flows through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, through Cambodia from north to south, and in Vietnam, before emptying into the sea, divides into several arms known as the Mekong Delta). The lake is about 15 kilometres from Siem Reap.
The most interesting thing about the lake are the floating villages, which were built on rafts and high poles to “travel” with the water. Villages like Kompong Phluk or Chong Kneas, offer a glimpse of the life of the locals who live on the water. A trip to the lake allows you to see how people have adapted to life in this dynamic water landscape. The lake is about 15 km from Siem Reap and is easily accessible by boat.
Phnom Kulen
Phnom Kulen is a sacred mountain (at the highest point about 487 meters) and a national park (entrance $20), about 50 km from Siem Reap. But as a national park, it has more historical and cultural significance than it is explicitly a trip to see the beautiful scenery. Practically the whole way through the park is surrounded by “forest”, without any views. There are some viewpoints, though.
It has especially strong religious significance – the Khmer Empire began here. In the 9th century, King Jayavarman II declared independence from Java and proclaimed himself “divine king” – which started the period of the great Khmer Empire (which then built Angkor Wat).
The main attractions in Kulen are:
- Wat Preah Ang Thom – a temple with a huge statue of the reclining Buddha carved directly into the rock. The most revered place in the whole park.
- River with “lingams” – in the river Kbal Spean there are thousands of sacred symbols of the Hindu god Shiva (lingams and yoni) carved into the river bed, which symbolise fertility and life.
- Kulen waterfalls – especially during the rainy season are very nice and you can even swim there. But there are a lot of people there, tourists and locals, and the water is not very clean either.
Koh Ker
Koh Ker is an archaeological site about 120 km northeast of Siem Reap. This site, which was once the capital of the Khmer empire, is still little visited, but it’s not a complete hidden gem either. But it is surrounded by dense jungle.
The main monument of Koh Ker is the pyramid temple Prasat Thom, which rises in the middle of the jungle. The monumental seven-tiered pyramid offers a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape. Other temples and statues are scattered throughout the complex.
Beng Mealea
Beng Mealea is a temple complex about 40 km east of the main Angkor complex. It is often likened to Ta Prohm, due to its atmosphere of jungle-covered ruins. The dense vegetation growing through the stone structures and the lack of reconstruction give the place an authentic and adventurous feel. It’s pretty quiet here too, with no tourists.
Transportation around Siem Reap
As I said, downtown Siem Reap is quite walkable, but it’s also usually so hot that it’s not much for longer walks and you’d rather take a ride. For shorter distances around the city, a tuk tuk is ideal, most trips cost around 4-5 thousand riel (about $1 to $1.25), and Angkor Wat is around 4-5 dollars. It’s not suitable for longer distances though – for more distant trips and getting to/from the airport, I’d already recommend dealing with a car.
You can easily order your tuk tuk and car for individual rides via the Grab app – which is ideal, it’s cheaper than picking up a tuk tuk off the street, you can see the price upfront, you don’t have to explain where you’re going in a complicated way. Each tuk tuk driver will be happy to agree a price with you for the day, which is handy for things like driving around the temples of Angkor.
You can also rent a bike or scooter here.
What to taste in Siem Reap
Cambodia’s national dish is Amok, a creamy curry made from fish (or even chicken), prepared with coconut milk and aromatic herbs such as lemongrass and galangal. It is often served in a banana leaf. The second big speciality is Lok Lak, marinated beef in a lime and pepper sauce with rice, a fried egg and fresh vegetables.
Where to eat in Siem Reap
Probably the best coffee shop to work at, even with a coworking space, was at Siem Reap Footprint. They had great breakfasts, food during the day and coffee and had no problem at all when we spent, say, a whole day there. There’s one really nice coworking space in town too, Siem Reap House, it costs $5 a day to get in, but you can get coffee at most.
Nice cafes for breakfast (but also snack, lunch, dinner, coffee or work) are Dialogue, with classic banana bread and drinks in the evening, with a sky bar on the second floor. Source café, with fair portions of avocado, or Asagohan near the night market.
For food, be sure to go somewhere Khmer BBQ, we were at អង្គរប៊ីប៊ីឃ្យូគីឡូ where you get broth, a rotisserie to grill the meat, and an all you can eat buffet ($8) with veggies, meat, mushrooms, noodles that you can either throw in the soup or on the grill.
We went to the super Changkran Khmer Restaurant for a better romantic dinner. And for homemade noodles and dumplings, Angkor Hand-Pulled Noodles & Dumplings.
Where is Siem Reap
Siem Reap is in the northwestern part of Cambodia, just a few kilometres from the iconic Angkor Wat, one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. Siem Reap is not the capital of Cambodia, that is Phnom Penh, but it is definitely the most visited. Not far to the south are the shores of Tonlé Sap Lake.
