Mostar is a town that people often just drive through. Stop for a couple of hours, take a photo of the Old Bridge, have a coffee and carry on to the Croatian coast. And I get that – it is a small town. But as far as I’m concerned, it’s worth staying at least overnight. It’s at its best in the morning or late afternoon, when the ‘day trippers’ have gone. And you’ll also have plenty of time to watch the bridge from a café and keep an eye out for the divers.
If you don’t have time to read the whole article, here are the key points:
- The Old Bridge is the main reason people come here. The ‘mostari’ jump into the Neretva from the Old Bridge.
- The water in the Neretva is freezing even in summer; you can only swim for a short while.
- Nearby are the Kravice and Blagaj waterfalls, with a Dervish monastery at the source of the Buna.
Where to stay in Mostar
The best place to stay is right in the Old Town, a short walk from the Old Bridge. There are plenty of boutique hotels and guesthouses in stone-built houses, some with views of the Neretva or even directly of the bridge. Bear in mind, however, that the centre is bustling during the day. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, stay a little further away from the bazaar – still within walking distance, but away from the morning hustle and bustle. Mostar is small, so even if you’re a few streets away, you’ll be at the bridge in just a few minutes.
Accommodation tips for Mostar
- Hotel Kriva Ćuprija – a stone hotel right next to the little Kriva Ćuprija bridge, overlooking the river and just a few steps from the Old Bridge.
- Hotel Bristol Mostar – a larger hotel on the banks of the Neretva, a short walk from the city centre, with rooms offering views of the river.
- Old Town Hostel & Hotel Mostar – a more affordable option right in the Old Town, with a choice of hostel and hotel rooms.
What to see in Mostar
Mostar is small; you can walk around the whole city centre in a single morning. Almost everything revolves around the Old Bridge and the Old Bazaar. A little further on, you’ll find traces of the war and a few spots off the beaten track.
Stari Most (Old Bridge)
The Old Bridge is the reason why people visit Mostar in the first place. It is a stone arch spanning the Neretva River, connecting the two parts of the old town. The original 16th-century bridge collapsed during the war in 1993; this one is a faithful reconstruction dating from 2004. It was built using the original stone from the river and traditional techniques, so it looks just like the original.
The best view of the bridge is from both banks, not from the bridge itself. From the bridge, you mainly see the Neretva flowing through the greenery. It’s best to visit in the morning or late afternoon; during the day it gets very busy here. The stone surface of the bridge has been worn smooth by pedestrians and can be quite slippery (especially if it’s raining). There are therefore tall stone steps across the bridge so that you can climb up.
Bridge jumpers
Local ‘mostari’ jump into the Neretva from the Old Bridge. It’s an old tradition: they jump from a height of over 20 metres into the icy water (which flows down from the mountains). It doesn’t come for free, and it’s not spontaneous. The jumper stands on the railing, drags it out for a while and waits until enough people have gathered round. Before jumping, he goes round the crowd with a hat and collects donations. If he doesn’t collect enough, he simply won’t jump.
Diving isn’t for amateurs. The water is cold and shallower than it looks, and people have even died here. Anyone who wants to dive on their own must complete training with the local diving club.
If you want to have a peaceful swim in the river, head further away from the town. The most beautiful spot is at Blagaj, about 12 km downstream, where the River Buna rises from beneath a rock near the Dervish monastery. The water is cold there too, but the spot is beautiful and quieter than the crowds beneath the Old Bridge.
The Old Town and the Kujundžiluk Bazaar
The old Kujundžiluk bazaar stretches out on both sides of the bridge. Cobbled streets, stone houses and stalls selling copperware, rugs and souvenirs. Copper has traditionally been worked here. You can watch craftsmen hammering out pots and coffee cups here. However, it’s very touristy and many of the stalls sell the same things. Even so, it’s a lovely place for a stroll, and you can enjoy a Bosnian coffee from a džezva whilst looking out over the river from one of the cafés.
The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque
The Koski Mehmed-Paša Mosque is an early 17th-century mosque right by the river. You can go inside, but the main reason to visit is to climb the minaret. It’s a narrow, winding staircase – quite cramped – so not really for those who suffer from claustrophobia. But from the top, in my opinion, there’s the best view of the Old Bridge in the whole city.
Kriva Ćuprija
Kriva Ćuprija is a small stone bridge over the Radobolju stream, a short distance from the Old Bridge. It looks like a smaller version of the Old Bridge – and indeed it is. It was built in the late 16th century as a sort of trial version before they embarked on the construction of the large bridge. It’s a lovely place to stop off on the way, surrounded by restaurants with terraces overlooking the river.
Bulevar and Sniper Tower
Not far from the tourist centre, a completely different Mostar begins. The front line ran along Bulevar Street during the war, and the effects are still evident. The houses bear visible scars from the shelling; some are abandoned. The most famous of these is the Sniper Tower, an abandoned high-rise bank building from which snipers fired during the siege. You’re not officially allowed inside, and the building is dangerous; it can only be viewed from the outside.
The Church of St Peter and St Paul
The Church of Saints Peter and Paul on the Croatian side of the city has a striking bell tower over 100 metres high. It is one of the tallest in the region and was built after the war. You can take a lift up the tower, and from there you can enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the whole city, including the bridge (from the opposite side to that of the mosque).
What to try in Mostar
Bosnian cuisine is very meat-heavy and very Turkish, which suits me down to the ground. In Mostar, it starts with the coffee. Bosnian coffee is served in a small copper cezve, accompanied by a cup, a sugar cube and a piece of rahat lokum. There’s no rush; the coffee is sipped slowly and it’s a bit of a ritual. A classic that you simply must try.
As for food, it’s got to be ćevapi, of course. Grilled meat rolls in warm somun (a fluffy flatbread) with onion and kajmak (a high-fat cheese). Cheap, filling, delicious. The second must-try, much like in Croatia, is burek: thin, stretched pastry filled with minced meat and rolled into a spiral. Or variations with cheese (sirnica) or spinach (zeljanica).
Traditional dishes include japrak (stuffed vine leaves) and Bosnian lonac, a stew of meat and vegetables cooked in a pot. As for sweet treats, baklava is available everywhere, as is tufahija – a cooked apple stuffed with nuts and whipped cream.
Where to go for a coffee in Mostar
For a traditional Bosnian coffee, pop into La Kafeta. They’ll serve it to you in a traditional coffee pot with all the trimmings, and it’s the perfect place to sit down for a while and catch your breath after a stroll through the bazaar.
Where to go on a day trip from Mostar
You can see all of Mostar in a morning, but the surrounding area is well worth a visit. If you’d prefer a hassle-free option, you can also book a full-day organised tour that combines three destinations: Blagaj, Počitelj and Kravice.
Kravice Waterfalls
The Kravice Waterfalls are about 40 km south of Mostar. The cascades plunge into a large pool where you can swim, which is just the thing in the hot summer. They’re at their most beautiful when the water level is higher, i.e. in spring or after rain. In summer, the flow slows down, but it’s still nice to cool off. It gets quite busy here during the season, so it’s best to go early in the morning.
Blagaj
Blagaj is just 12 km from Mostar and, in my opinion, the most beautiful day trip in the area. The River Buna rises right beneath a high cliff here, and standing by the source is the white 16th-century Dervish monastery Tekija. The water here is also freezing cold, but the spot is quieter than at the Old Bridge. There are also restaurants by the spring with terraces overlooking the water.
Počitelj
Počitelj is a small stone town of Ottoman origin, about 30 km from Mostar, situated above the River Neretva. It stretches up the hillside, and at the top stands an old fortress with a tower. Climb to the top and you’ll have the whole town, the river and the valley spread out below you. It’s a smaller, quieter stop, more or less on the way to Kravica.
Sarajevo
It’s about 130 km to the capital, Sarajevo, so it’s a trip that will take at least a whole day. If you were to go by train, it runs through the Neretva Valley and the journey itself is an experience.
Where is Mostar?
Mostar is in the south of Bosnia and Herzegovina, in the Herzegovina region, on the River Neretva. It is a short distance from the Croatian border and Dalmatia.
How to get to Mostar
Mostar is most often a stop-off on a road trip through Dalmatia. It’s about 140 km from Dubrovnik and roughly 160 km from Split. The route from both places takes you across the border.
No car? You can get here by bus. There are direct services from Split (around 3.5 hours), Dubrovnik (around 3 hours) and Sarajevo (just under 3 hours). There’s also a train from Sarajevo, which takes a more scenic route through the river valley.
